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Duke57TT 18-06-09 15:10

Vx Ss 408 Tt
Bottom End

Block - LS6 Iron Block 4" bore, block prepped for a eventual 4.030" bore.

Stroker Kit - Eagle 4" crank and 6.125" H beam rods with arp 2000 series bolts. Pistons are Mahle LS1 turbo pistons -32cc dish. Bearings are Fedrul Mogul competition series. Arp Stud kit holding it all together. Compression with the heads im using will be around 8.5:1.

Sump - Factory sump with extra windage, two AN-10 for returns.

Heads - Will be using L92 heads from that are CNC'd. They flow 360cfm at 650' lift on 4.125" bore. The specs for them are as follows

Casting Number 12595364 or 12582716
Valve Angle 15-degree
Combustion Chamber 70cc*
Intake Port Volume 279cc*
Exhaust port Volume 99cc*
Minimum Cylinder Bore 4.000”
* Approximate, Numbers are within +/- 2cc’s

Milling Information for Combustion Chamber Sizing
- Approximately 0.006” per 1-cc
For 68-cc Chamber Remove 0.012”
For 65-cc Chamber Remove 0.030”

Springs: SDL1650VS
Max Lift: 0.650"
Locks: Manley
Retainers: Titanium
Valves: Manley

Flow Chart:
Flowed @ 28” H20 on a 4.155” Bore

Lift 0.100 0.200 0.300 0.400 0.500 0.600 0.700
Intake 69 154 222 266 309 345 358
Exhaust 46 100 136 166 189 202 209

Lifters are Comp 850's, pushrods a 7.425" Comps etc etc pretty much just all comp off the shelf.

Timing chain is crane double row vernier

Rockers are Yella Terra off set 1.7 ratio adjustable shaft mounts.

Camshaft- Ahh a personal grind. If you want details PM me.

Intake Manifold/Throttle Body- is a factory L76/92 manifold. I will see how this performs, Im sure it will meet my goals and HP figures but if it proves to be to restrictive, the LSXR 102mm is now out. :)


Extreme tripple carbon when I buy it. Factory T56 with a ripshifter filled with mainlube till it breaks.


Harrop V8 supercar style


Harrop outer hubs, Harrop CV, Harrop Billet stub axles, billet 3.46 gears, harrop detroit tru-trac 8k's worth.


Consists of, intank Walbro as lift pump, then a ASE triple Walbro surge tank @ 5litres, then AN-10 fuel lines as feed to the two ASE fuel rails, then a Aeromotive fuel reg, and AN-10 return to the surge.

The FI side of things

I havn't purchased this yet, I want the engine in the car and a few other things sorted. I have scoped the turbos as Mr Billet Z-p's. To4z size compressor wheels.

These are the manifolds, Kyle of 6boost made them. I didnt get them brand new I bought them 2nd hand.

Boost ControlI will be using a pair of Tial 44mm Wastegates. Boost Control will be with a Eboost, and two plumb back GFB bovs for stealth spec.

Exhaust - Dual 3.5" dumps into a 3.5" dual system.

Now for the fun stuff.... Turbo sizing...

PSI-EFI 18-06-09 17:21

thats gonna be an animal

Duke57TT 18-06-09 17:21

Fuel system design... its still this principal but is a little different with a few more pumps etc.

5spdvl 18-06-09 17:21


Duke57TT 18-06-09 17:22

At first, when I was being sensible I was looking at turbocharging my stock engine. After much deliberation I choose a pair of GT28/76's, basically as large as you can go in a Garrett GT28 size frame. The compressors flow 440hp worth of air each and being realtively small ball bearing units would see full boost below 3000rpm, making 5 or 6 pounds at about 2300rpm. In other words a massive lower/midrange but only very slightly tapering off towards 6250rpm when they start to lose there eifficiency.

I sized these turbos up on the large cubic inch motor, and talk about come on boost hard. Anyway, these turbos where pretty much aperfect match for a 346-360ci engine but where starting to struggle on the larger cubic motor. If you can keep your turbo's efficent and your charge temp down, you can run more timing less fuel and make more power. A gentleman I know is using these on his forged 360ci. Stock heads, good sized turbo cam, made 522rwkw. Great little turbo's. Though he was running exotic fuel, so on pump roughly a 450rwkw pair of turbos.

So the hunt was on for another pair of suitable turbos.

No for those of you who want to cheat, and size your turbos the easy way I suggest this website. Though you will need to know your VE of your engine and a few other bits a pieces.

I would just like to state this is not my work... I found it on the internet but served me pretty well until I bought a decent book on the subject. The text in bold is mine and most likely has the errors.

The purpose of this little paper is to show the reader how to calculate the volume and mass of air moving through his engine, and how to size a turbochargers' compressor to move that quantity of air. It should also offer some enlightenment of the effects of temperature, pressure, and intercooling on the engine's performance.
Engine Volumetric Flow Equation
This equation is for finding the volume of air going into the engine. The displacement on our cars is 231 We have a four stroke engine; the intake valve on a cylinder opens once every 2 revolutions of the engine. So, for every 2 revs the engine takes in 231 of air. How many pounds of air is that? That depends on the pressure and temperature of the air in the intake manifold. But the volume is always 231 every 2 rpm.

volume of air (cu ft/min)= engine rpm x engine cid / (1728 x 2)

So therefore (cu ft/min)= 6500rpm x 408ci / 3456 = 767CFM @ 100% VE

Now at this point its easy to go one step further and times this equation by your VE and you will have your calculated CFM, you can either do this with an educated guess IE 80% or work it out via this next method

- worth noting for you guys with maf's still in place i believe you can work out your VE by simply calculating your CFM @ 100% efficency then comparing actualy CFM as measured by the MAF then work it out like so

actual CFM Measured / Calculated CFM x 100 - This will give you a VE %

So therefore at my guesstimate of 85% VE It works out as such

(cu ft/min)= 6500rpm x 408ci / 3456 x .85 = 652CFM

Ideal Gas Law/Mass Air Flow
The Ideal Gas Law is a handy equation to have. It relates the air pressure, temperature, volume, and mass (ie, pounds) of air. If you know any three of these, you can calculate the fourth. The equation is written:


where P is the absolute pressure (not the gauge pressure), V is the volume, n is related to the number of air molecules, which is an indication of the mass (or pounds) of air, R is a constant number, and T is the absolute temperature.

What are absolute temperature and pressure? Do we care? Of course we do!

Absolute pressure is the gauge pressure (measured by a gauge that reads 0 when it is open to the outside air) plus atmospheric pressure. Atmospheric pressure is about 14.7 psi at sea level.

Example: a boost gauge reads 0 psi before it is hooked up. Hook it up, boost the car, and it reads 17 psi. 17 psi is the gauge pressure, the absolute pressure at sea level is 14.7 + 19 = 33.7.

A pressure reading is marked psia or psig. The "a" stands for absolute, the "g" for gauge. (The psi stands for Pounds per Square Inch). As we just showed, 17 psig = 33.7 psia. A perfect vacuum is 0 psia, or -14.7 psig.

The absolute temperature is the temperature in degrees F plus 460. This gives degrees Rankine, or deg R. If it is 80 deg F outside, the absolute temperature is 80 + 460 = 540 deg R.

The Ideal Gas Law can be rearranged to calculate any of the variables. For example, if you know the pressure, temperature, and volume of air you can calculate the pounds of air:


That is useful, since we know the pressure (boost pressure), the volume (which we calculate as shown in the first section "Engine Volumetric Flow"), and we can make a good guess on the temperature. So we can figure out how many pounds of air the engine is moving. And the more pounds of air you move, the more power you will make.

Here is the Ideal Gas Law rearranged to the two handiest forms, with the required constants:

To get pounds of air:
n(lbs/min)= P(psia) x V(cu.ft./min) x 29 all divided by / (10.73 x T(deg R))

To get the volume of air:
V(cu.ft./min) = n(lbs/min) x 10.73 x T(deg R) all divided by / (29 x P(psia))

Celsius to Rankine Conversion

So for lbs a minute in my case hoping to run up to 20psi n = (14.7+20) x 652 x 29 all divided by / (10.73 x 549) = 111.4lbs/min

Volumetric Efficiency
If life was perfect, we could fill the cylinders completely with air. If we had 17 psi boost in the intake manifold, we would open the intake valve and get 17 psi in the cylinder before the intake valve closed. Unfortunately, this doesn't usually happen. With some exhaust remaining in the cylinder and the restriction offered by the intake ports and valves the actual amount of air that flows into the cylinder is somewhat less than ideal. The amount that does flow divided by the ideal amount is called the volumetric efficiency.
For your basic stock small block chevy, I think this number is around 0.85 (or 85%). Things like big valves, big cams, ported heads, tunnel rams, etc... get this number closer to 1.0 (or 100%). With tunnel rams some normally aspirated cars can get over 100% at certain rpms due to the ram effect.

To take this into account when we calculate flow into the engine, we multiply the ideal amount of air by the efficiency to get the actual amount of air:

actual air flow = ideal air flow x volumetric efficiency

Time for an example. Lets calculate the pounds of air flowing into an engine for two different cars, an intercooled '87 and a nonintercooled '85. For both cars we will use a volumetric efficiency of 0.85. For both cars the engine is turning at 5000 rpm. What is the volume of air it is using?

volume, in cu.ft per minute = 5000 x 231 all divided by / 1728 x 2 = 334.2 cfm

This holds true for both cars, both intercooled and nonintercooled will be moving 334.2 cfm of air into the cylinders at 5000 rpm. As we will see however, the mass of air flowing is not the same.

Suppose the car an '85, so it isn't intercooled. The temperature in the intake manifold is about 250 deg F. The car is running 19 psi boost. What is the mass of air the engine is using?

Absolute temperature = 250 deg F + 460 = 710 deg R

Absolute pressure = 19 psig + 14.7 = 33.7 psia

n (lbs/min)= 33.7 psia x 334.2 cfm x 29 all divided by / 10.73 x 710 deg R = 42.9 lbs of air per minute (ideal)

lbs air per minute actual = lbs/min ideal x vol. eff.
= 42.9 x 0.85
= 36.4 lbs air/minute

What if the car is an '87, it IS intercooled, so the temperature in the intake manifold is only 130 deg F. This car is running 17 psi boost.

Absolute temperature = 130 deg F + 460 = 590 deg R
Absolute pressure = 17 psig + 14.7 = 31.7 psia

n(lbs/min)= 31.7 psia x 334.2 cfm x 29 all divided by / 10.73 x 590 deg R = 48.5 lbs of air per minute (ideal)

lbs air per minute actual = 48.5 x 0.85 = 41.3 lbs air/minute

Notice that the '87 car is getting MORE lbs/min of air (41.3 for the '87 to 36.4 for the '85) even though the boost pressure is lower. This is because the intake manifold temperature is so much lower. And more pounds of air means more power!

The compressor is the part of the turbocharger that compresses air and pumps it into the intake manifold. Air molecules get sucked into the rapidly spinning compressor blades and get flung out to the outside edge. When this happens, the air molecules get stacked up and forced together. This increases their pressure.
It takes power to do this. This power comes from the exhaust side of the turbo, called the Turbine. Not all of the power that comes from the turbine goes into building pressure. Some of the power is used up in heating up the air. This is because we lowly humans cannot build a perfect machine. If we could, all of the power would go into building pressure. Instead, because of the design of the compressor, the air molecules get "beat up", and this results in heat. Just like rubbing your hands together will warm your hands due to the friction between your hands, the friction between the compressor and the air and between the air molecules themselves will heat up the air.

If you divide the amount of power that goes into building pressure by the total power put into the compressor, you get the efficiency of the compressor.

For example, if the compressor is 70% efficient, this means that 70% of the power put into the compressor is used in building air pressure. The other 30% of the power is used heating up the air. That is why we like high efficiency compressors; more of the power is being used on building pressure and less is used heating up the air. Turbos, Paxtons, and Vortechs are all centrifugal superchargers. The are called this because the centrifugal force of flinging the air molecules from the center of the housing to the outside edge is what builds air pressure. The maximum efficiency of these kinds of superchargers is usually between 70% and 80%. Roots blowers, like the 6-71, work differently and have much lower efficiency, like about 40%! With those, when you try to build lots of boost you have to put in a lot of power and more than half of it gets used heating up the air instead of raising pressure.

If the temperature goes up a lot when you increase the boost you can end up with fewer pounds of air going into the engine, so you lose power. That's why a Roots blower is bad if you want lots of boost. Screw compressors, like the WhippleCharger for the 5.0, have good compression efficiency. That's why the Top Fuel guys are starting to try them out, and getting good gains from them.

So? How Hot is the Air Coming out of the Compressor?
Well, I'm glad you asked. The equation used to calculate the discharge temperature is:
Tout = Tin + Tin x [-1+(Pout/Pin)0.263]

Example: the inlet temperature is 70 deg F, the suction pressure is -0.5 psig (a slight vacuum), the discharge pressure is 19 psig, and the efficiency is 72%. What is the discharge temperature?

Tin= 70 deg F + 460 = 530 deg R
Pin= -0.5 psig + 14.7 = 14.2 psia
Pout= 19 psig + 14.7 = 33.7 psia
Pout/Pin = 33.7/14.2 = 2.373 (this is the compression ratio)

Tout = 530 + 530 x (-1+2.3730.263 ) all divided by / 0.72 = 717.8 deg R - 460 = 257.8 deg F

So the theoretical outlet temperature is 257.8 deg F. I sure would like to have an intercooler to cool that hot air down before it goes into my engine!

Compressors do not always operate at the same discharge pressure. The discharge pressure that the compressor produces depends on the volumetric flow into it (not the pounds of air, but the CFM of air), and the rpm that it is turning. The performance of a compressor can be shown on a graph by a series of curves. Below is a compressor map from the Turbonetics catalog attached, it is the file called H-3.JPG. [The graph is included here, and is available for download via the hotlinks provided....Ed.]

turbo graph

This is for their Cheetah turbo; take a look at it. The bottom of the graph shows the lbs/min of air that the compressor is moving, corrected to a standard temperature and pressure. The standard industry practice is to put this part of the graph in actual volumetric flow (such as ACFM) since the compression is constant for a given volumetric flow and compressor speed, NOT for a given mass flow. Unfortunately they didn't do their curves that way, and to use the Turbonetics curves we have to figure out the pounds of air moving and correct it from the actual inlet temperature and pressure to their standard temperature and pressure.

The left side of the graph shows the outlet pressure to inlet pressure ratio.

There are two different sets of curves in the graph; efficiency curves and rpm curves. The area where there are lines drawn is the operating envelope. It is best to operate the compressor within its envelope. It will still run if you go to the right of the envelope, just not well. To the left of the envelope, where it is marked "surge limit", the flow through the compressor is unstable and will go up and down and backwards unpredictably. This is surging. Do not pick a turbo that will operate in this area! It can be very damaging.

The Turbonetics catalog says to pick a turbo that is close to the peak turbo efficiency at the engine's torque peak while still maintaining at least 60% efficiency at the maximum rpm of the engine.

Here's how to read the graph.
Figure out the pounds of air that you are moving through the engine. In our '87 example, we were passing 41.3 lbs/min of air, at inlet conditions of -0.5 psig and 70 deg F. Now correct that flow to the standard temperature and pressure.

Corrected flow = actual flow x (Tin/545)0.5

Note that I am using 13.949 because we are measuring everything in psia instead of in inches of mercury, which Turbonetics assumes.

13.949 psia = 28.4 inches mercury absolute.
29.92 inches mercury is atmospheric pressure at sea level, so 29.92 - 28.4 = 1.52 inches mercury vacuum.
That is their standard suction pressure.

Their standard temperature is 545 deg R, or 545 - 460 = 85 deg F.

So we are correcting the flow from 70 deg F and -0.5 psig to 85 deg F and -0.75 psig (or 13.949 psia, or 0.75 psi vacuum, or 1.5 inches mercury vacuum, or however you want to look at it.)
Again, temperature and pressure have to be absolute.

Tin = 70 + 460 = 530 deg R
Pin = -0.5 + 14.7 = 14.2 psia

Corrected flow = 41.3 x (530/545)0.5 = 40.0 lb/min

So we mark that point on the bottom of the graph, and draw a straight line upward from that point.

An alternate and better way of getting airflow at less than full throttle is the use of a scan tool. The scan tool (such as TurboLink(tm)) reads the mass air sensor output. TurboLink(tm) gives this in grams per second. To convert that to pounds per minute just multiply by 0.1323. For example, if TurboLink(tm) says 18 gm/sec @ 45 mph, 18 x 0.1323 = 2.4 lb/min of air.
Correct that to standard conditions and plot that on the compressor map. Unfortunately the MAS will only read to 255 gm/sec. If you are moving more air than that, the MAS won't show it. That is why you need to go through the above calculation for full throttle air flow.

The next step is to figure out the compression ratio, using absolute pressures. Using our example, we had 17 psi boost in the intake manifold. Let's suppose the pressure drop from the turbo outlet to the manifold is 3 psi; so the actual compressor outlet pressure is 3+17=20 psig. The air pressure is 0 psig, but since the turbo is sucking air to itself the pressure at the inlet is lower than that.

Let's say it is -0.5 psig at the inlet. Then the compression ratio, Pout/Pin is :

Pout/Pin = (20 + 14.7) = 2.44
(-0.5 + 14.7)

So then we find about where 2.44 is on the left side of the graph and draw a line horizontally from that point. Where the two lines meet is where the turbo will operate.
Look at the efficiency curves, which look like circles. Our point is just a little inside the 72% curve, so when we are running at 5000 rpm and 17 psi boost with 70 deg air outside and 130 deg air in the manifold then the compressor efficiency is a fraction over 72%.

The other curves are rpm curves. Our point is above the 105,500 rpm curve, so the turbo has to spin about 108,000 rpm to get the pressure up to 20 psig from -0.5 psig. The Turbine has to provide enough power to spin it that fast.

Change any of these numbers, and the point at which the compressor runs at changes. More engine rpm means more air flow, so the operating point moves to the right. Colder intake temperatures means more pounds of air which moves our point to the right. Raising the boost probably means more air into the cylinders, but also the compression ratio goes up so our point definitely moves up and should move right. And so on.

So, how do tie all this together? Well, suppose you are in the market for a new turbo. Which one to buy?
First, I would pick about 4 different operating scenarios. Highway cruise, part throttle acceleration (say 2/3 @ 2700 rpm), full throttle acceleration at 3500 or 4000 rpm, and full throttle acceleration at 5500 or 6000 rpm sound like 4 good points to me.
Second, calculate the volumetric flow for each one of those cases. Then, making estimates of the intercooler outlet temperature (or turbo outlet temperature if nonintercooled), turbo discharge pressure, volumetric efficiency, manifold pressure, etc.. calculate the mass air flow for each case. You may also want to check the difference between summer and winter, ie air temps at maybe 90 deg F and 40 deg F. This will affect the manifold temperature and so the air flow. Note that when cruising and at idle, even though the manifold pressure is at a vacuum the turbo discharge pressure is not. It has to pump up the air some, even if it is only to 0.5 psig or so. You can check it out by moving your boost gauge to some point upstream of the throttle body. Besides the mass air flow, calculate the Pout/Pin for each case.
Third, and this is the hard part, find the compressor maps for the turbos you are interested in. Turbonetics has maps for their Cheetah, 60-1, and 62-1 in their catalog. The other vendors may not want to let you have the maps for theirs. Plot the points from the 4 cases on the compressor map.
Fourth, evaluate the proposed compressors performance. Are the idle/cruise operating points to the left of the surge line? Then this turbo will surge and isn't a good choice. Is the 5500 rpm point so far out to the right that it is off the map? Then this turbo doesn't flow enough for your application. You want all the operating points within the map, and preferably at as high an efficiency as you can get.
If you are trying to choose between 2 turbos, pick the one with the better efficiency where you do most of your driving.
Good luck!

OK so after reading all that you get it right.... I wouldnt worry to much about it. If you think about it a XR6 turbo runs a GT35/40 running a 1.06 rear its 4L, Hm I have to 3.4ish L banks on my engine plus better heads and nice manifods and the like. So two 35/40's would go pretty close right maybe a smaller rear housing like a .86. Well yes and no but a hell of alot of people just go on what other people have done or get someones else advice that has done it before.

But anyway I mapped out 5 points and plotted on my turbo flow map.

2500rpm denoted by the green spot
3500rpm denoted by the red spot
4500rpm denoted by the black spot
5500rpm denoted by the orange spot
6500rpm denoted by the pink spot

Again all this can be done via the Ray Hall Turbocharging Website if you cant be bothered, though it only has the older T series turbo compressor but some of them are the same as the GT series anyway.

So first of all I worked out my CFM for each point

250CFM @ 2500rpm
350CFM @ 3500rpm
450CFM @ 4500rpm
550CFM @ 5500rpm
650CFM @ 6500rpm

Then calculated the lbs/min as most turbo graphs are in this form

So Im using guestimation for temps rankine but will ramp to a max temp of 549deg Rankine or 50 DegC and PSI as i would like it to be.

(15.7x250x29)/(10.73x504) = 21bls/min @ 2500rpm at 1psi of boost pressure over atmosphere
(19.7x350x29)/(10.73x522) = 35.7lbs/min @ 3500rpm at 5psi of boost over atmosphere
(24.7x450x29)/(10.73x540) = 55.7lbs/min @ 4500rpm at 10psi of boost over atmosphere
(29.7x550x29)/(10.73x549) = 80.4lbs/min @ 5500rpm at 15psi of boost over atmosphere
(34.7x650x29)/(10.73x559) = 109lbs/min @ 6500rpm at 20psi of boost over atmosphere

So we have to divde these by two as Im using two turbo chargers

And this is where it plots on the graph, I only did this rough as alot of values are estimates and not actual calculations but it looks ok to me. Im not probably going to run 20odd psi in the car at any stage but it just goes to show you the more air flow vs boost the less efficient your turbos become thus heating up your charge air.

I also have some basic cam maths to help choose FI camshafts.

I found it on the net here Forced Inductions then found it over on the other side of the island. Someone had already beat me to it. Its only a basic guide but it gives you some idea when profiling what cam profiles work and what dont.

Add the intake and exhaust durations
Divide the results by four
Subtract the LSA
Multiply the results by two...

So for instance I will profile a cam that alot of people use on blown cars...

224/230 580 580 114LSA

So 224 + 230 = 454

Divide the result by 4 so 454/4 = 113.5

Subtract the LSA of 114 113.5 - 114 = -0.5

Then times the answer by 2 which gives you -1 degree of overlap. Which is a good thing as that means the exhaust valve will be closed before the inlet opens.

Now I will try a big N/A camshaft.

242/242 600 600 110LSA

So 242 + 242 = 484

484/4 = 121

121 - 110 = 11

11 x 2 = 22 degrees of overlap. mmmm lumpy heaven.

Just remember its by no means an exact formula, but it can point you in the right direction. There is things like your pressure ratios, boost levels fuel types you name it, it can impact on your specs of camshaft. But for a rough guide its a good start.

Even with all the info Ive read on camshafts and boost, I still left this choice to my engine tuner. My idea of a perfect cam was close but not quite. It was nice to see that with some effort, you can understand the ideas behind the choices the guys in the know make. Instead of standing there with a glazed look in you eye nodding your head looking silly.

5spdvl 18-06-09 17:26

You type faster than God.................or maybe you had that lot pre prepared? ;

Duke57TT 18-06-09 17:30


Factory Rocker covers with 4 x AN-10 breathers


Tripple Walbro intank setup.

Yeah lol alot of it is from another forum that I am a member of. Some of it is new stuff.

This is really only the beggining, I will have all the life of and times of trying to put it all together so it works, including tuning it.


My cooler

Heads Intake and exhaust ports + valve face

Pistons, with -32cc and still has valve reliefs haha. I have a story about them but its 10 pages worth in itself.


One clutch to far...

When it was stock.....

Engine as it currently sits but, it also has a Over the radiator intake.

Um the car will be firstly for dyno and drag racing, I want 140+MPH full weight. 150mph would be nice. Once Ive had fun and finished with that I will sell engine plus associated bit and go back to be 427ci n/a for circuit racing which I really enjoy as well.

Engine swap hoepfully next week and then all the fun of the fair, getting all the new stuff on and working well. Then trying to keep it on the dyno :p

I keep forgetting stuff, also I have an ASE engine oil cooler and remote mount filter, and a ASE power steering cooler. So I have three intercoolers on the front of my car :p

malpaso 18-06-09 17:46

"look at me im so smart with all these numbers blah blah blah"

nah man this thing should be brutal,looks good and i finally see what your avatar is
out of curiousity, why did you choose a vx?

Duke57TT 18-06-09 17:49

Well it never intended to be what it is... I've had VL's before it but just never went as mental.

If I had my time over again, I would of sold the VX, bought a new VE and put brakes, exhaust and a whipple charger on it and been happy as.

5spdvl 18-06-09 17:58


Originally Posted by Duke57TT
Well it never intended to be what it is... I've had VL's before it but just never went as mental.

*looks out kitchen window at shed door housing beast in the build*

I hear that!!

Is the cooler an off shelf item? What sort of price range is it?

FORZA 18-06-09 18:00

lol i read about 1/12 of what you wrote

i might read all that info one day... when hell freezes over

love the pics of the machining on the head

this thing is gonna be an absolute machine when its done

malpaso 18-06-09 18:09

yeah i couldnt be bothered reading all of it what power (and times if your looking at that) are you hoping for

or are you just doing it for the fun of it

Duke57TT 18-06-09 18:34


Originally Posted by 5spdvl
*looks out kitchen window at shed door housing beast in the build*

I hear that!!

Is the cooler an off shelf item? What sort of price range is it?

I got the cooler from Jake of Jakes Performance. It wasn't all that dear but I can't remember how much. It was under $500 from memory. Ahh its 100mm core, 2 x 2.5" in and a single 3" out. I kinda wish now I had of gone 4" out but not to worry. 3" is eaiser to fit the pipin in where I want it to go.


Originally Posted by FORZA
lol i read about 1/12 of what you wrote

i might read all that info one day... when hell freezes over

love the pics of the machining on the head

this thing is gonna be an absolute machine when its done

Yeah and fair enough to it was painful enough to type it all. The info in it really is just about turbo sizing and how to pick the correct turbocharger for a given engine. Plenty of people do the well, everyone else has a 35r so I will just get one. It works, this is just if you a numnut like me that likes to know how it works.


Originally Posted by malpaso
yeah i couldnt be bothered reading all of it what power (and times if your looking at that) are you hoping for

or are you just doing it for the fun of it

Powerwise, I can't stand here and say it will make x amount, but I have about 1500hp worth of turbo and the rest of everything should be capable of doing that.

I would love to see the 1000rwhp mark just because cvnts get more of a chubby over that and its easy to say. In all seriousness, I want to be over the 150mph mark. Single digits would be nice but to do it with a stick would be impressive.

Hopefully early next week I will reveal my engine complete on a engine stand and I can take some more photos of the wanky parts like the split timing cover and vernier timing, etc.

LUXJET 18-06-09 18:50

what a piece'a'shit

Duke57TT 18-06-09 21:05

Just some more photos cause I was bored, the first photo is just the "HDT Improved" thing. It a bit rubbishy when HDT was in the doldrums Bill Lee Auto was the supplier of late model HDT stuff. My SS went form the stealership to him at delivery K's for enhancements. Then had HDT badges jamed all over it.

The other photos are self explanitory really. The last lot of photos are late model LS3 type coils, found on Yukon trucks in the states. Supposedly the pick of the bunch, and more than capable of igniting big big HP when you tickle up the tune, and modify dwell settings and voltages.

The good thing about these coils all the ignitor stuff is built into the coil so awesome for RB motors etc.

[FLY-BYE] 19-06-09 07:15

lookin good man =]. needs moar boost tho lol

NZ EVLHSV 19-06-09 07:51

Cool, have wanted to see some pics and info about this car for a while. Love the diff setup :D

5spdvl 19-06-09 17:30

Plus one for the diff, it really does turn me on. Everyone knows I live a good diff!

[FLY-BYE] 19-06-09 18:47

you think it turns you on tim, i drove it, needless to say the interior needed a clean lmao

Duke57TT 19-06-09 18:57

It does a good flick turn dunnit Trent...

[FLY-BYE] 19-06-09 19:50

fuck oath it does, goes round on itself so well :)

5spdvl 19-06-09 20:17

Do you have pics of your diff before it went in? And what'd the Harrop cover set you back? They usually aren't cheap. Still got standard driveshafts?

Duke57TT 19-06-09 21:17

Ahh my diff setup starts with this these, outer hubs, the CV's and then billet stub axles.

Then in the guts is one of these.

So the billet stub axles slide into this

I have a set of billet 3.46 diff gears

and one of these covers.

As per Harrops prices, $5500 for CV's combo, $1540 for tru-track, $550 for housing cover. $500 to set the diff up and install it.

I have broken the stock diff a few times before this. Mainly CV's which I got sick of replacing. I also broke a pinion gear once and chewed some teeth of the crown. If this one breaks I will cry. Then I will buy a 9"

[FLY-BYE] 21-06-09 20:06

if it does die luke, itl die in a ****ing awesome way gaurantee'd lol

5spdvl 21-06-09 20:50


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