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-   -   Smoothing the bay help (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=274924)

will-98 01-04-14 14:54

Smoothing the bay help
 
Hey guys, I'm currently in the process of smoothing out my engine bay ( which is a complete c*nt ) i have seen a few different threads about it, but i need help!
I want to smooth out the strut towers but i heard that bog will crack. Someone had mentioned using sikaflex, does anyone have any experience or methods of using it because i have heard it can be very hard to work with! Even if there is anything else i could use to do it please let me know :)

Cheers

Wkd_Vl 01-04-14 17:53

i welded mine and then run a bit of bog around it to make it smooth

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...26399136_o.jpg

3lturbo 01-04-14 18:06

Like Wkd said, weld them, and then a little bit of bog to smooth them up.

Gouldy 01-04-14 18:47

I bogged mine looks mint no cracking either

will-98 01-04-14 19:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wkd_Vl (Post 3045059)
i welded mine and then run a bit of bog around it to make it smooth

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...26399136_o.jpg

Thats came up mint! Is the car on the road yet? Cause people say that as soon as you start driving you CAN run the risk on cracking the bog i would writher not take the risk.

What did u weld exactly? isnt it seam sealer from factory?

The reason i want to use a more flexible product is cause there is allot of stress to the area and i dont want any cracks even if theres just a "chance"

Thanks for the advice though guys :-)

---------- Post added 01-04-14 at 20:36 ----------

If i had a photo i would show u guys, but I've been looking into stock vl engine bays and the strut tops look good compared to mine. Mine are crappy as with lines small dints and a few lumps/distortions, ill try get a photo up when i see it next :)

3lturbo 01-04-14 19:57

Ususally there are a few spot welds around the struts that you need to sort out.

I've probably only driven about 30kms or so since I smoothed my bay, but I have no cracks whatsoever. Maybe if you were pushing the car hard enough that it was to flex (eg big launch at the drags) it may crack. But you run risks with everything, wether it be smoothing your bay or building an engine. If your that worried about it maybe just get it painted instead.

will-98 01-04-14 22:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3lturbo (Post 3045083)
Ususally there are a few spot welds around the struts that you need to sort out.

I've probably only driven about 30kms or so since I smoothed my bay, but I have no cracks whatsoever. Maybe if you were pushing the car hard enough that it was to flex (eg big launch at the drags) it may crack. But you run risks with everything, wether it be smoothing your bay or building an engine. If your that worried about it maybe just get it painted instead.

Yeah thats true dude, hopefully it holds out, yeah i heard it would most likely crack if u took sharp fast turns obviously putting strain on that area.
Yeah im getting it painted no doubt, i wanted a alternative way to fix the towers so i would not have to worry about it cracking.
With all the other little dings and un smooth areas I'm just sanding back and filling with bog.
I still wouldn't trust the bog in the on the towers although it seems allot have done it so I'm really not sure.
I might give the sikaflex a go and see how it turns out, i know people have done it just wanted some tips :-)

Thanks though :)

AVG45 05-04-14 08:42

You might be able to get a sikaflex or sikaflex like product that sets a bit harder than the conventional sika 252. Might be worth a look at trade tools or something.

will-98 05-04-14 15:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by AVG45 (Post 3045376)
You might be able to get a sikaflex or sikaflex like product that sets a bit harder than the conventional sika 252. Might be worth a look at trade tools or something.

Yeah i will look into it mate, i still have abit more sanding and filling to go until i get to the towers, i will ask around and see whats best!

Thanks :$

bLuj3t 13-04-14 12:25

use seam sealer. the same stuff you would use when putting a door skin on, or where you weld a new panel on. apply with a gun, force it in with finger, clean excess off with rag/prepsol. wait 24 hours before applying paint but keep it clean from dirt.

will-98 13-04-14 13:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by bLuj3t (Post 3046016)
use seam sealer. the same stuff you would use when putting a door skin on, or where you weld a new panel on. apply with a gun, force it in with finger, clean excess off with rag/prepsol. wait 24 hours before applying paint but keep it clean from dirt.

Oh thanks mate! Do u know if sika flex and seam sealer are similar ? Is it easy to mould into the ridges and get a smooth finish?
Cheers :)

bLuj3t 14-04-14 23:56

Sealer is wat they used from factory for a reason. The only problem with the factory sealer is they put it in terribly.... and i mean TERRIBLY!! Once you have used the sealer you use your finger just to wipe/force it into the gaps and then one final wipe to make it "smooth' and wipe any excess away with a rag, and if u need a bit of prepsol but you only put it on 24hours before paint.

Its the same sealer they use from factory its just 25 years newer. Remember to take every last bit of old sealer out and clean where tge surface rust has started with a metal cleaner.

Ill take a foto of the tube i use at work . Sikaflex has different properties. As for sikaflex its not made for sealing joins etc. it wont have the same properties that this type of sealer needs

will-98 15-04-14 01:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by bLuj3t (Post 3046137)
Sealer is wat they used from factory for a reason. The only problem with the factory sealer is they put it in terribly.... and i mean TERRIBLY!! Once you have used the sealer you use your finger just to wipe/force it into the gaps and then one final wipe to make it "smooth' and wipe any excess away with a rag, and if u need a bit of prepsol but you only put it on 24hours before paint.

Its the same sealer they use from factory its just 25 years newer. Remember to take every last bit of old sealer out and clean where tge surface rust has started with a metal cleaner.

Ill take a foto of the tube i use at work . Sikaflex has different properties. As for sikaflex its not made for sealing joins etc. it wont have the same properties that this type of sealer needs

Wow thanks man, you have helped me out heaps, yeah its been applied it terribly which is why alot of people like myself 'smooth' it out. In your opinion do u think Sikafelx will work? Or should i go with seamsealer? Yeah a photo would be great ! I might upload some photos of my own up to show what ive done up to now.

Cheers :)

Turismo 17-04-14 00:04

Go seam sealer.

there is a reason for its use in sealing and protecting throughout automotive industry and not sikaflex.

Use prep-sol (wax and grease remover) to clean up any excess.

worked in the panel industry and is the only stuff they use.

will-98 17-04-14 00:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turismo (Post 3046262)
Go seam sealer.

there is a reason for its use in sealing and protecting throughout automotive industry and not sikaflex.

Use prep-sol (wax and grease remover) to clean up any excess.

worked in the panel industry and is the only stuff they use.

Thanks mate, ill give it a crack then try get some photos up.

A quick question, my old man is a panel beater and had told me that with his experience using seam sealer it shrinks as it dries up, have u had the same issue? Or is it nothing to worry about?

Cheers :)

bLuj3t 18-04-14 01:14

To be honest I haven't really had any issues with the seam sealer drying up. The only issues I have had is applying paint over the sealer to quickly once I have applied it and the paint doesn't grab and looks like it's flaking/cracking. However this can be avoided by letting it set for a little bit, around 24 hours.

I did not get a pic I genuinely forgot haha and no do not use sikaflex. That's a stronghold goo good for moulds etc.

EVERY factory sealer job is terrible. The amount of factory runs in my engine bay/scuttle is ridiculous as well

Are you painting it basecoat or 2k solid?

will-98 18-04-14 12:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by bLuj3t (Post 3046344)
To be honest I haven't really had any issues with the seam sealer drying up. The only issues I have had is applying paint over the sealer to quickly once I have applied it and the paint doesn't grab and looks like it's flaking/cracking. However this can be avoided by letting it set for a little bit, around 24 hours.

I did not get a pic I genuinely forgot haha and no do not use sikaflex. That's a stronghold goo good for moulds etc.

EVERY factory sealer job is terrible. The amount of factory runs in my engine bay/scuttle is ridiculous as well

Are you painting it basecoat or 2k solid?

Oh yeah thats fair enough man, i will let it dry for a while before i paint it.

Yeah i had to spend heaps of time on the strut towers making them as even as i could and trying go get rid of the ugly unwanted seam sealer streaks and runs. Now I'm left with a small ridge/step and i want it gone.

Its going to painted in a silver base coat with a 2k clear.

I have photos if your curios to see, ill make a build thread one day haha.

Thanks again :)

bLuj3t 19-04-14 01:48

Im always interested to see ppls handywork chuck a few pics up. Yeh its hard to explain how
The paint reacts to the sealer if you apply it too quickly. Its ok if its like a rad support where its hidden but since this is in your face you want it too look good. We use the same sealer in the join where it connects the 1/4 and rear cowel theres that small bit where it needs it.

Turismo 23-04-14 10:56

^^ good point
May be worth doing all your sealing 1st and waiting for it to dry. That way you can add or subtract with a razor blade any sealer that you are not happy with.

Or get your dad to apply his skills hehe.

Take your time mate. its very easy to get carried away and rush through the steps without thinking it through.

And for the love of smarties cereal chuck some pics up.

will-98 23-04-14 16:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turismo (Post 3046648)
^^ good point
May be worth doing all your sealing 1st and waiting for it to dry. That way you can add or subtract with a razor blade any sealer that you are not happy with.

Or get your dad to apply his skills hehe.

Take your time mate. its very easy to get carried away and rush through the steps without thinking it through.

And for the love of smarties cereal chuck some pics up.

Haha yeah I'm taking my time with it, just been rubbing and rubbing....and rubbing.

Haha its taking ages but i want it perfect!

Nah i want to do it my self and learn. dad hasn't helped me one bit with the bay so its all my own work :)

Do i have to put photos of my computer cause i cant figure it out of my phone -,-

Cheers again :)

---------- Post added 23-04-14 at 21:07 ----------

hey guys, finally got around to getting some photos of my bay up. i'm still learning so any tips or mistakes that you could pick out would be great :) i never planed to cut out lumps and creases etc and make it 'show car specs' but i will do it later on when building the turbo motor for it if all goes well.

this was the over all finished product of the prep apart from a small ridge in the towers and a bit of sealer that i couldn't get to cause of the brake booster being in the way which i will take care of soon.

Here are a few photos of what i have done so far :-)

http://i60.tinypic.com/2vw5usp.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/2i0vxwz.jpg

http://i57.tinypic.com/mws9ch.jpg

i will upload more when i get more work done to it. :)

bLuj3t 23-04-14 23:00

Happy to help. Make sure you etch the bare metal before priming

will-98 25-04-14 16:17

Will do mate :)

Turismo 26-04-14 21:58

Coming up well.

will-98 26-04-14 22:35

Thanks mate :)

bLuj3t 27-04-14 01:03

we use the "worth" brand seam sealer at work. we put it through an air gun, basically an air caulking gun and can adjust pressure, volume which makes it a hell of a lot easier.

the cartridge says paintable after one hour or until it has skimmed over. bout $20 a cartridge.


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