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Old 28-12-08, 13:48   #276
Steve
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So.... Just confirming - R33 yoke can be adapted to VL tailshaft?
Also Ive read R32 shifter fits same as R33 shifter? Well the VL NA shifter fits the R32 RB20 boxes, so I could just use an MF5 shifter but change the bush on the end??
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Old 05-03-09, 20:42   #277
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im just wondering if i buy the new turbo yoke from hardy spicer can i just pull the yoke off my na tail shaft and put the new 1 straight on? or does something else need to be done?
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Old 06-03-09, 14:20   #278
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That's all you need to do.
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Old 23-06-09, 15:28   #279
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Hey guys I'm planning on doing this conversion in the next few months or so, and I've read through this thread a million times, but I just want to confirm a few things so I can start buying the parts for it and try have everything ready so I can do the whole lot in one go on a spare Saturday or something (probably not guna happen tho : )

I will be converting it (the Calais) from N/A Auto to R33 RB25DET Manual, so the following is my plan of attack:

1) Buy an r33 rb25det manual box (make sure it comes with shifter, slave cylinder, clutch fork and carrier), an r33 rb25det clutch Kit (includes clutch plate, housing/diaphragm, and thrust bearing - I'm thinking of an Exedy, either a Heavy Duty one or a 5-puk - what do you guys think?).
2) Also I'll need an MF5 tailshaft (do I need the MF5 centre bearing or will my auto one work?),an R33 yoke, an MF5 sandwich plate, MF5 flywheel with the manual flywheel bolts, MF5 spigot bush.
3) And a VL clutch pedal and manual brake pedal, a VL clutch master cylinder (I'll sort out the clutch line once I have the master cyl and the slave cyl so I can see if the VL one will fit), VL manual gearbox surround (interior), MX7 speedo drive.

I think that's it for the parts. Now for my questions:

a) Can I use my auto speedo cable (with the MX7 speedo drive)? or do I need to get an MF5 cable and put the MX7 speedo drive on that?

b) What are these Neutral/Reverse switches? I'd guess the reverse one is for the reverse lights but what about the neutral one? and what am I supposed to do with them when converting from auto to r33 manual?

c) From what I've read, the Auto Gearbox crossmember will fit, it'll just bolt in a different position. but I don't think anyone's mentioned the actual gearbox mount (the rubber thingy). can I use my Auto one? and could I just use my Auto bolts to bolt the gearbox crossmember and mount?

d) With the clearance that is between the r33 box and the floor, what thickness are the spacers that you guys have used, and what exactly have you used as spacers?

e) Can I use the Auto bellhousing bolts for the R33 box?

That's all I can think of at the mo, if you guys could check thru everything and correct me where I'm wrong, and answer my questions, that will be much appreciated.
cheers,
Sam
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Old 24-06-09, 18:36   #280
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Not too sure about the auto driveshaft, but an engineer mate of mine is modifying my manual driveshaft (needed lengthening) and fitting it with the skyline yoke.
You will need a custom clutch master cylinder hose (skyline fitting is different) figure about $70 for this.
Reverse switch switches the reverse lights on and off. Not 100% sure on the function of the neutral safety switch, but I wired it up anyways.
I used my RB30 manual gearbox mounts on the skyline box, unsure if the auto one differs, but you'll soon find out when ya under the car! The crossmember just bolts into the other set of bolt holes that you will see in the floor pan.
I didn't need any spacers with my box, but it is pretty tight in the trans tunnel (no touching tho) Needed about 3 or 4 long extensions on my ratchet to do up the top bellhousing bolts tho!!!
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Old 24-06-09, 18:50   #281
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What box are you running NZ GTS ? In post #6 on the first page it says =

All VL gearbox crossmembers are the same. even auto - manual. its only the gearbox mounts off the crossmember that differ. The MF5 or MX7 crossmember will bolt straight up to the skyline box. The Spacers are needed on the MX7 and R33 boxes. Without them the box hits on the floorpan under hard acceleration. they also provide more clearance around the speedo drive area
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Old 24-06-09, 20:05   #282
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The big skyline box. I had no issues mounting my box, just mixed and matched bits and pieces. It's really obvious when ya lookin at it, just hard to explain...
Still yet to accelerate anywhere though... Looks to be plenty of space around the speedo drive area, just need an MX7 drive now. Box has least clearance around the top of the bell housing - there would have to be some serious movement for anything to touch though.
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Old 24-06-09, 23:13   #283
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I will give my opinion on your comments tomorrow madrx3boy when I have sobered up.

Ok.

1) Your clutch choice is inconsequential to your conversion, as long as it's an RB clutch (9.5" N/A Vl or any Skyline would be preferable over a 10" VLT unit). What clutch you choose depends entirely on your power and application. Speak to a clutch expert and see what they recommend.

2) An MF5 tailshaft will come with the centre bearing already fitted. All you need to do is change the yoke to an R33 item, available from Hardy Spicer for ~$100.

3) A VL clutch master cylinder is fine, bot for the slave cylinder you will need an R33 item, as the bolting pattern on the bellhousing differs to the VL item (two bolts on one side, as opposed to one bolt on either side). Some people have issues in getting their stock clutch lines to connect easily between the VL and R33 clutch master and slave cylinders; I will standby my ongoing recommendation to every one to take both cylinders to a clutch or brake specialist and get a custom braided hose made up that fits perfectly on both ends. Do it once, do it right.

a) Auto speedo cable is fine.

b) To be honest, I've no idea what the neutral switch is supposed to do exactly. My guess is there is some degree of similarity between the auto and manual body harnesses of VLs, and the manual neutral switch is supposed to trick the car into thinking it is always in neutral (allowing you to operate the starter motor); however, when converting to manual it never works like that. Either the auto selector switch needs to be rewired, or the relay behind the battery. There is information in the Auto to Manual Thread about making your own loom.

c) The auto crossmember will not fit. They are different. And yes, they will bolt to a different set of holes on the floor pan (you'll see them immediately when you remove the old crossmember). The rubber mounts are the same between auto and manual.

d) Not sure about the clearance, but it shouldn't be an issue, with this many people putting R33 boxes into their VLs. As for spacers (where required), thick washers should do the job, just big enough to go over the bolt and create a good "footprint' for the crossmember to push against.

e) That's a good question. I was provided with OG manual bellhousing bolts, but there wasn't enough. So I have a combination. It's never been an issue; while you're there, you'll see which ones will and won't fit. There is only one bolt that's an issue, and it's because there is no thread on either side (engine or bellhousing); it requires a nut.

Last edited by 5spdvl; 25-06-09 at 09:55. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 25-06-09, 12:07   #284
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ok thanks for the info guys, it should help a lot.

Just a little confused with the driveshaft tho, NZ_GTS you said you needed yours lengthened (as well as putting the R33 yoke on), but I havent read anywhere else in the thread that it needs to be lengthened?
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Old 25-06-09, 12:40   #285
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The auto shafts 100% need to be lengthened, not sure on the MF5 shafts
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Old 25-06-09, 13:28   #286
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MF5s are the correct length, they simply need the yoke changed for the R33 item. The auto tailshaft is noticeably shorter.
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Old 25-06-09, 14:03   #287
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ok sweet as, thanks guys
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Old 25-06-09, 17:40   #288
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Does everyone have problems getting to the upper bell housing bolts? i used a ring spanner on mine from the engine bay, ratchet ring spanner would be even easier again.
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Old 25-06-09, 18:05   #289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielh
Does everyone have problems getting to the upper bell housing bolts? i used a ring spanner on mine from the engine bay, ratchet ring spanner would be even easier again.

Hey mate..

Ive got a 3/8 extension bar with a uni joint on it, its like 2ft long. Best tool in the shed for me to get these off.. I used the uni joint (flexible 3/8 drive) up until half way along the gearbox and then used another straight extension with he correct size on the end. It means you can use your ratchet in an open area down the back of the gearbox, hope this helps because they can be a bitch otherwise.
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Old 25-06-09, 18:37   #290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madrx3boy
ok thanks for the info guys, it should help a lot.

Just a little confused with the driveshaft tho, NZ_GTS you said you needed yours lengthened (as well as putting the R33 yoke on), but I havent read anywhere else in the thread that it needs to be lengthened?
yup, it sure did, needed around 30mm added. From what I've read, the turbo driveshafts are the correct length, but mine certainly wasn't. Converted from a manual RB30 to a RB25DET with the big box. Maybe if your only putting the 25 box on the 30 the spacing is different??
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Old 25-06-09, 19:05   #291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NZ_GTS
yup, it sure did, needed around 30mm added. From what I've read, the turbo driveshafts are the correct length, but mine certainly wasn't. Converted from a manual RB30 to a RB25DET with the big box. Maybe if your only putting the 25 box on the 30 the spacing is different??
Yea thats the only explanation I could think of. Maybe the 25 block is a tad shorter than the 30? or it sits slightly more forward on the engine mounts than the 30 does? or a mix of both even. does your shifter sit quite close to the hanbrake in 2nd,4th and reverse, as mentioned near the beginning of this thread? or does it have a bigger gap?
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Old 07-07-09, 14:01   #292
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http://www.driftshop.com.au/interior.htm

Peoples thoughts on those shifters?
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Old 07-07-09, 17:25   #293
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The knobs all look wanky, but the quick shift kit looks ok.
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Old 07-07-09, 17:28   #294
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Which one? I couldn't decide between the top and the second, I thought the second had the goods but I doubt it's still on special.

And I'll most definitely be getting a thread on it so I can put the existing knob on. Everyone needs a good knob.
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Old 07-07-09, 18:51   #295
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the spacer on the cross member is 12mm and keeps the drive shaft central.
I used a rubber flex line from a bluebird to adapt the vl clutch line to the r33 slave.
cheers
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Old 04-08-09, 21:01   #296
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righto i got some questions i am just about to convert to rb25 gearbox.

currently i am running a rb20det manual gearbox.

1. what speedo drive do i need to buy and where from? part no. etc so my original speedo cable that was in the rb20 manual gearbox will work in the r33 gearbox OR do i need the MX7 speedo cable aswell as a new speedo drive???

2. the rubber flex line off the slave for the r33 box has been cut, what can i do. does the clutch line screw straight into the slave?

Last edited by RUKidn; 04-08-09 at 21:42.
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Old 04-08-09, 22:58   #297
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It may screw straight in, but there have been reports of this not being possible. Unfortunately you won't know until you try. If you need the car day to day, I'd suggest you find out before you pull it to bits.

I'm not 100% on what the RB20DET box runs, but if you're using a VL cable then your CABLE should be fine. But for the speedo sender unit, you need an MX7 one (VLT), or a Nissan Navara speedo sender unit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 86SLVLT (as found on this page)
For anyone wondering Nissan still sell the MX7 speedo drive. The part number is 32702-02G17 and the MX7 shifter bush part numer is 32861-01G00

The speedo drive is $41 and the bush is $9
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Old 06-08-09, 15:49   #298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdvl
It may screw straight in, but there have been reports of this not being possible. Unfortunately you won't know until you try. If you need the car day to day, I'd suggest you find out before you pull it to bits.

I'm not 100% on what the RB20DET box runs, but if you're using a VL cable then your CABLE should be fine. But for the speedo sender unit, you need an MX7 one (VLT), or a Nissan Navara speedo sender unit.
thankyou i am buying the part no.32702-02G17 for the speedo drive to go into the r33 box i think that is the correct speedo drive???

as for the speedo cable i am using i gues i will just have to see if it fits into the new speedo drive, if not i will need to source a MX7 speedo cable. would they be hard to source?? or can you still get a MX7 speedo cable from HOLDEN
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Old 06-08-09, 22:11   #299
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Not sure about getting a new speedo cable from Holden. Give them a call.
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Old 08-08-09, 09:01   #300
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Not sure about getting a new speedo cable from Holden. Give them a call.
are you sure the navara speedo unit is the right one, i went down to nissan yesty and had a look at it. the gears are different sizes and apparently they dont seat in the right way, you need to modify them so they sit on the right angle etc. as the gear is off centre. is this true? or is it a matter of just unbolt the electric unit and bolt the new navara one in, the gear on the navara one is alot smaller etc.

i went down to nissan yesty to look at the navara speedo drive, and it looks fairly different, the gears are different size etc, i dont know wheather you have to change the gears over?? f

and another guy in there was telling me you have to modify the navara drive by cutting a slot in it so you can seat it into the box on the right angle, as the gear is off centre. is this a lie or??

im in two minds now, i dont know weather to get the navara speedo unit or not.

can someone shed some light on it, is it a matter of just bolting the navara unit in??? is it that simple, with no modiffications

Last edited by RUKidn; 08-08-09 at 09:08. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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