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Old 03-10-08, 11:33   #26
RhiNOS
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Well thanks for the info, but meh. It seems the infamous rough idle problem remains. I have tried everthing to disembowel the rough idle effect and to date have achieved nothing. I think a mechanic is in order. Although something i did notice is that the, Boost & Oil pressure gauges are bouncing within the 5:1 ratio (approx 10oil, -3 Vac) Any ideas?
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Old 03-10-08, 12:21   #27
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Originally Posted by RhiNOS
Well thanks for the info, but meh. It seems the infamous rough idle problem remains. I have tried everthing to disembowel the rough idle effect and to date have achieved nothing. I think a mechanic is in order. Although something i did notice is that the, Boost & Oil pressure gauges are bouncing within the 5:1 ratio (approx 10oil, -3 Vac) Any ideas?
Could be a valve? have you done a compression test yet?
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Old 03-10-08, 12:33   #28
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vacuum at idle should be around -21
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Old 05-10-08, 09:36   #29
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Yeah I haven't done a compression test yet, but vac on idle is -20, so i cant see a prob there. And oil pressure on idle is around 40. I have a feeling it might be the no. 4 plug as I can't get into the little ****er. See what the day brings haha.
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Old 13-01-09, 16:35   #30
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thanks a heap man, helped with my problem alot
we thought it was initially a bad wire or plug because at idle it sounds as if its miss firing, but on second look after reading this we fixed the problem.

great guide.. thanks
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Old 13-01-09, 16:42   #31
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Originally Posted by pro747
thanks a heap man, helped with my problem alot
we thought it was initially a bad wire or plug because at idle it sounds as if its miss firing, but on second look after reading this we fixed the problem.

great guide.. thanks
That's what we like to hear
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Old 24-03-09, 13:39   #32
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With this plug removed test the voltage on each pin of the female harness plug against ground (engine earth/battery -ve) with the ignition on (KOEO).
Should have 12v (battery volts from the EFI relay), earth (Ov), and on the remaining 2 pins - 5v on each (from ECU).
Ensure the distributor shaft is turning during cranking - cam belt.
With the engine cranking these 2 wires which had 5v on each are the important signals you are after - expect approx. 2.3v on one and 0.3v on the other. If the CAS has failed expect close to 5v OR close to 0.0v on one or both. If the signals are BOTH within 20% of specs.



Just reading this article. i understand the fact that you will get 5volt, 0 volts, 5 volts and 5 volts from the 4pin harness side of the crank angle sensor. i dont understand the second part of it though. "When cranking, the two 5volt signal wires will drop to 2.3volts and 0.3 volts. If they stay at 5 volts or 0 volts then your CAS has failed". Unless you hook the harness back up to the CAS and test whilst connected, wont you still get the 5 volt signals cause its not actually connected to the CAS? I thought the CAS actually changes the signal voltage, if not connected then wont see the change.
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Old 31-05-09, 22:01   #33
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Whilst slowing down for a set of lights last week, my car started running really rough, as though someone was turning he key on and off! i managed to limp it home but now it wont even start!

Ive replaced the CAS, Power transistor thingy, and have even replaced the entire dizzy with one from a running car. Still wont go. Rotor button, dizzy cap and leads/plugs are alll brand new.

It runs a haltech E6X so there is no AFM. Any suggestions??
im yet to try all the tests that have been posted but thought someone could have an idea!

Cheers Wardy
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Old 31-05-09, 22:38   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wardy32
Whilst slowing down for a set of lights last week, my car started running really rough, as though someone was turning he key on and off! i managed to limp it home but now it wont even start!

Ive replaced the CAS, Power transistor thingy, and have even replaced the entire dizzy with one from a running car. Still wont go. Rotor button, dizzy cap and leads/plugs are alll brand new.

It runs a haltech E6X so there is no AFM. Any suggestions??
im yet to try all the tests that have been posted but thought someone could have an idea!

Cheers Wardy
I guess you tried another coil
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Old 31-05-09, 22:48   #35
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yeah i did! but then again there was no proof that the one i had worked lol! Ill go through all the tests tomorrow after work.. i really hope that there is nothing wrong with the ecu.. the fuel pumps are running fine so i guess the ecu is still powering up.
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Old 31-05-09, 23:18   #36
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Originally Posted by wardy32
yeah i did! but then again there was no proof that the one i had worked lol! Ill go through all the tests tomorrow after work.. i really hope that there is nothing wrong with the ecu.. the fuel pumps are running fine so i guess the ecu is still powering up.
I personally haven't had any dealings with a haltech E6X so not much help there..

But change things one at a time and retry Good luck
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Old 02-06-09, 17:21   #37
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ok so i did all the test that are on page 1!! double checked things but still no spark..

One thing i did find was that the fawn wire onto the PT had no signal (should be 0.4V) i removed my kickpanel and realised that the bloody windscreen rubber has been leaking and water had gotten around the ecu!!! not happy.

im not 100% sure if the water had gotten in and done any damage, but it is weird that the car stopped the day after rain! im thinkin of changing the entire engine harness to eliminate any wiring problems/breaks etc

does anyone know what the costs are to get a haltech looked at? i didnt get a chance to call them today.

Wardy
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Old 02-06-09, 19:31   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wardy32
ok so i did all the test that are on page 1!! double checked things but still no spark..

One thing i did find was that the fawn wire onto the PT had no signal (should be 0.4V) i removed my kickpanel and realised that the bloody windscreen rubber has been leaking and water had gotten around the ecu!!! not happy.

im not 100% sure if the water had gotten in and done any damage, but it is weird that the car stopped the day after rain! im thinkin of changing the entire engine harness to eliminate any wiring problems/breaks etc

does anyone know what the costs are to get a haltech looked at? i didnt get a chance to call them today.

Wardy
I think you should get the ECU checked out 1st then, I think it's had a bath then by what you say and a leaking windscreen right above it is common.

Sometimes there OK after they dry out - some people have sprayed them with a heap of CRC and have been OK after - but yours being costly to replace I'd get the ECU checked 1st
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Old 07-06-09, 18:45   #39
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sent it away to be checked.. looks like the water got in there and done the damage!!

im waiting to hear back about wether it can be repaired or not.
Pissed and happy at the same time, at least i found the problem.. So either way when i get a ecu back (mine or a new one!) it will be mounted in the glovebox and gettin a new windscreen seal..

cheers for the replies mag!

Wardy
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Old 18-09-09, 19:21   #40
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whats the amm? or is it another word for air flow meter
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Old 28-09-09, 18:24   #41
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is their some way to clean the afm.... like carby cleaner or some thing?? i have a spair one and it has some oil or some thig through it so yer wonting to try clean it and see if its allright
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Old 28-09-09, 19:23   #42
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Originally Posted by dvs_wgn
is their some way to clean the afm.... like carby cleaner or some thing?? i have a spair one and it has some oil or some thig through it so yer wonting to try clean it and see if its allright

electrical contact cleaner
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Old 06-03-10, 10:48   #43
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Guys...I'm after a definite answer here. I've heard of both ways, but which way do you turn the AFM screw to lean it out...Clockwise (higher resistance) or anti-clockwise (lower resistance)?
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Old 06-03-10, 12:16   #44
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Guys...I'm after a definite answer here. I've heard of both ways, but which way do you turn the AFM screw to lean it out...Clockwise (higher resistance) or anti-clockwise (lower resistance)?
So turning clockwise will increase the resistance which will 'richen' the mixture, whereby turning anti-clockwise will 'lean out' the mixture.
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Old 06-03-10, 12:49   #45
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cheers mate...you're sure of this? There is a lot of conflicting evidence, thats all
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Old 21-10-10, 21:36   #46
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Multimetered the craaaaaap out of my AFM this arvo, pins 1 and 6, raised the resistance, like lots based on advice from a mechanic who previously had them from 380 ohms to about 490 ohm, i think this had leaned it WAAAAY out.

Any tips?
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Old 11-11-10, 23:15   #47
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my vl has only just developed a missfire so i checked the crank angl sensor cap took it off then i put it back on and and the spark got worse and now it doesnt even spark at all from only just touching the plug do you guys think it might be a dogey wire in the plug or wiring harness???? or is it the crank angle sensor??? any help would be much appreciated

---------- Post added 12-11-10 at 19:02 ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by adz24888 View Post
my vl has only just developed a missfire so i checked the crank angl sensor cap took it off then i put it back on and and the spark got worse and now it doesnt even spark at all from only just touching the plug do you guys think it might be a dogey wire in the plug or wiring harness???? or is it the crank angle sensor??? any help would be much appreciated
i changed the crank angle sensor and now it still has a missfire and runs like **** ive done the fuel filter changed plugs changed leads changed the water temp switch changed distributer????3 weeks before i put a bigger fuel pump in a bosch 044 but i didnt change the fuel sender inside the tank could this be the problem???????????or could this be signs of a headgasket letting go? theres no water in the oil cheers
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Old 17-11-10, 16:31   #48
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after all that the number 1 injector was blocked
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Old 29-01-11, 19:26   #49
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Hey guys, up until yesterday the vl was idling and runnign mint, replaced 2 broken manifold studs today and when wiring the dizzy back up i hooked it up clockwise instead of anti clockwise and tried starting it several times, realising what i had done wrong i swapped it back and it started then stalled while idling, then it wouldnt start at all, and now its starting every now and then and if i leave it to idle itll run for maybe 30 seconds then just die like its getting no fuel, if i give it some juice when it actiually manages to start it splutters or pulses or sometimes just dies occasionally it wont pulses or splutter but instead makes a sound like its missing, you can hear a murmer from the exhaust when its idling gets louder just before it dies.

I have done a diagnostics test which returned 21 (ignition system) if that helps... What's wrong??

---------- Post added 30-01-11 at 11:22 ----------

My afm is giving just .02 volts on the 3rd wire... is my ecu stuffed?
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Old 22-02-11, 22:55   #50
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GAB did u find the problem
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