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Old 16-10-06, 02:52   #51
timo
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I am curious to see if i can run NA injectors and ecu for alteast a week to gimme a chance to see if my turbo will need a rebuild or not, if not then i will go ahead and get injectors and ecu.
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Old 28-10-06, 14:49   #52
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does some1 know this dude he has alot of q's to answer. TOP SITE
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Old 04-01-07, 20:00   #53
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Series 1 Block

"If you're building an RB30ET and use a VL series 1 engine block, you need to put a T-piece in the oil pressure sender hole in the block and use one of those for the turbo oil feed line."

This is the way L28's with dealer fitted turbo's worked,

T piece from where the oil sender unit is to feed your turbo oil,
Then you run a pipe from the turbo to the top of the sump (high as humanly possible on the sump) and make a hole for your new oil return line to go to,

Or alternatively put holes in the block and tap them to replicate series two block,

For the water maybe someone can help me?

"Get a copper T-piece to connect onto the heater pipe (maked in red) and run a rubber hose around the back of the engine for the cooling of the turbo."

If you are using a series 1 block how do you route the water back into the block?
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Old 16-07-07, 21:13   #54
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top site mate im nom giving up on 355 rebuild and goin turbo you need a bloody medal 4 that effort well done
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Old 03-09-07, 22:11   #55
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has anyone done the conversion and not changed the fuel pumps?
how did it go?
and do you really need a decomp plate?

thanks
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Old 23-12-07, 15:23   #56
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Yes, stock pumps, they are identical, the NA setup just doesn't run a surge tank. Don't run a decomp plate, Un opened NA motor. Made 135rwkw on 6psi, now run 12 all day everyday. I've got my ecu Nistuned though which i'd recommend, or at least some for of aftermarket ecu if you're running a bit of boost. You need to trim up the timing map in a few spots with the high compression, a much better solution than just knocking say 10 deg out of the whole map by adjusting the dizzy.
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Old 12-01-08, 07:06   #57
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Aswome site tones of good info , cheer.
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Old 23-01-08, 15:39   #58
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errr... "the site is currently supended" haha what you do bro?

also could this conversion work for a r31 rb30e?
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Old 30-01-08, 22:04   #59
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yea get ur website un-suspended i wonna check it out!
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Old 11-02-08, 21:51   #60
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Was a great site. GET IT BACK UP!!!!!!
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Old 11-02-08, 22:13   #61
Jonno
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Did anyone make a copy of the infomation that was on the site?
Otherwise I hope it gets unsuspended soon...
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Old 11-02-08, 22:16   #62
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Try sending him a PM or if he has an email, I'm sure he made a back-up of the website.
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Old 11-02-08, 22:25   #63
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Just sent an email. Hasn't been active on this website since 2006 so will just have to wait and see I guess
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Old 11-02-08, 22:34   #64
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Just sent an email. Hasn't been active on this website since 2006 so will just have to wait and see I guess
True mate. All you can do is wait.

I remember briefly having a look at this site on my brothers PC when he was in the process of doing a turbo conversion on his VL. Was quite a good read. Learned a lot!
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Old 02-03-08, 08:40   #65
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It's a shame that website has been pulled.
It was actually quite thorough, and very informative.
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Old 13-04-08, 21:45   #66
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yer i think i might have most of his site saved somewhere on the computer will try and find it. does someone want me to email it to them?
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Old 08-05-08, 12:03   #67
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I would love a copy of tht site
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Old 12-06-08, 20:27   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skaarj
yer i think i might have most of his site saved somewhere on the computer will try and find it. does someone want me to email it to them?
yeah mate if you could email it to me would be great, ill PM my email. Cheers
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Old 13-06-08, 02:27   #69
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does anyone think i should make a thread in the technicle section??


Here you go guys for some reason my computer didn’t save the pictures
the only pics i can find on my pc are of the dump pipe, exhaust manifold, and cross over pipe but i doubt you guys are so unfimiliar with that stuff you need pics of them (and i can't be bother posting them)

hope this helps guys


1. First step is to fill up the car using Premium Unleaded

2. Remove the heat shield covering the exhaust manifold

3. It would be advised one week in advance to use WD40 on the bolts for the exhaust manifold (less chance of snapping)

4. Drain the oil from the engine by unbolting the sump plug

5. Then take off all the plastic piping, and spark plug leads

6. Remove the nuts holding on the exhaust manifold, being careful trying not to snap the bolts

7. Remove the front cam belt cover, and take off the cam belt

8. Unplug all the vacuum lines on the inlet manifold, and injectors, plus any other electrical plugs.

9. Unscrew the rocker cover

10. Undo all 12 head bolts using a 10mm align key

11. There is also some 10mm bolts holding the head on, located on front left, rear left and right corner of the head

12. Now the head should just come off with the inlet manifold

13. Remove the head gasket

14. This is now easier to remove the inlet manifold from the head

15. With the head once removed, clean it using a degreasing tub (or a can of degreaser)

16. Make sure that there is no trace of the old gasket on both the head and block, use a course wet and dry sand paper in a circular motion

17. Replace the spark plugs, and the old exhaust manifold studs with new ones (these cost about $3-$4 each at most spare parts shop)

18. Place the new head gasket on the block (if you have a decompression plate place on head)

19. Torque the Head back on

20. Remove the belts, and fan

21. Pull out the harmonic balancer using a puller

22. Take off the timing belt covers

23. Remove the timing belt, and replace with a new one (only about $30-$40)

24. Remove all 3 oil and water plugs on the right hand side of block

25. Get a copper T-piece to connect onto the heater pipe (marked in red) and run a rubber hose around the back of the engine for the cooling of the turbo.

26. Bolt the water and oil return pipes onto the block (I used new copper washers)

27. Place the inlet gasket on, and then bolt the Inlet manifold back onto the head

(I'm using a VL turbo inlet, you could just use the VL N/A inlet with the Turbo Injectors)

28. Plug all the vacuum lines, fuel lines, and injector leads.

29. Bolt the dump pipe back onto the Turbo

(I suggest getting new high tensile bolts as they get very hot and can snap when trying to take them off later down the track)

30. Put the oil in and water inlet pipes on the Turbo (I used new copper washers)

31. Bolt the Turbo back onto the exhaust manifold, make sure you use the gasket (cost me $50)

32. Put the exhaust manifold gasket on and bolt the manifold onto the block

33. Bolt the oil and water lines up to the turbo and block (I used new copper washers)

34. Screw in the Oxygen Sensor into the dump pipe

35. Fit the exhaust onto the dump pipe (gasket also needed here)

36. Clamp the turbo inlet pipe, rubber air inlet, and air flow duct

37. Put oil in your engine

38. Top up your Radiator (you may want to flush the radiator also)

39. Plug in the spark leads, in correct firing order

40. Put the belts back on and fan.

41. Prime the car before starting (turn the ignition on, off, on, to get the fuel pump working and to pressurize)

42. Start the car, and check for any oil or water leaks from the turbo

43. Check the timing using a timing light (set to 15 degrees, any higher can cause pinging)

44. As I painted the exhaust manifold, turbo, and dump pipe I needed to drive the car around to warm the paint, once this was done I then fitted the heat shields

I have cut the N/A heat shield to fit onto the Turbo Manifold

A couple of other things that would be worth replacing are:

Oil in the diff
Fuel filter
Spark plugs and leads
Rotor and Cap
Air Filter (I have a K&N so didn't need replacing)
Oil Filter

Last edited by Skaarj; 13-06-08 at 13:00.
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Old 02-08-08, 15:42   #70
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ill try get photo's when i do my changeover
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Old 05-08-08, 20:25   #71
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says its been suspended?

edit: didnt realise there were more pages? no worries.

Hope it goes back on
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Old 15-09-08, 14:52   #72
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the site says it has been suspened

Last edited by Danielvp; 15-09-08 at 16:37. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 09-03-09, 12:51   #73
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http://search.ebay.com.au/ws/search/MemberSearchResult
found his ebay name if u can be ***d askin him if his site is comin back up soon lol
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Old 26-09-09, 12:47   #74
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it doesnt work.
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Old 21-02-10, 14:18   #75
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is the site down?
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