N/A Highcomp Turbo Setup

[KALAY]

N/A Highcomp Turbo Setup

#####IMPORTANT#####
This is to be done ONLY after you have upgraded your brakes to turbo spec! N/A brakes and a Turbo DO NOT MIX, they WILL choose to FAIL at the worse possible time
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GENERAL INFORMATION
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Non Engine Parts
Brakes on the VL TURBO are larger, and they have got finned calipers
Rear brakes are always DISK on a VL Turbo
Diff on a VL turbo is 28 spline Vs 25 spline for non turbo (28 is MUCH stronger)
Master Cylinder (brake) is 1" instead of 15/16'ths
Brake Booster is Double Diaphram in a turbo car
VL turbo Manual is stronger MX7 vs MF5 (non turbo is useless)
VL TURBO auto is stronger and has an oil cooler


Original Turbo and Non Turbo Differences Engine
There are a few differences between a Turbo engine and a Non Turbo engine from factory
Cam
Oil Pump
Pistons

Engine Block
The Turbo aka series 2 engine block has got the fittings as bolts in the last picture of this post.

Identification of a Factory Turbo engine block
a8 designates rb30et, a6 designates rb30e. It will only be on the number at the RIGHT HAND FRONG of the motor, the number at the left hand rear will always end in A (thx yep_boost)

Turbo
The Turbo Used is a Nissan Garrett T3, which is watercooled, it has an internal Wastegate, which is set to approx 6 PSI.

Fuel
Try running your car for a month or so on HIGH octane fuel, ultimate, vpower and all, because thats what you WILL NEED to run after you do a high comp turbo conversion, if thats too expensive, forget the turbo
Fuel Pump
N/A Fuel Pump Is fine to use with the conversion

Camshaft
The Turbo camshaft has got less overlap than the non turbo one both are useable

Knock Sensor
When it detects pinging, it will retard the timing 5 degreese, if you are running a turbo computer there is a guide on installing one somewhere on calaisturbo

Oil Pump
N/A Oil Pump Is fine to use with the convserion

Fuel Regulator
N/A Fuel reg can be used with the conversion (Not With Turbo Plenum)

Fuel Rail
N/A Fuel Rail Can Be used with VLT injectors (Only With N/A Plenum)

Plenum
N/A Plenum can be used with the conversion (Flows Better Too)

Automatic Transmission
N/A Auto Transmission is hit & miss, highly recommend the first to do list is to get it bulit stronger or Aid it with Transmission Cooler that may increase its life some what, as costs to buy/replace one would reach around $300-400 proffesionally done

Manual Transmission
The MF5 is a very weak box (i broke 2 with a very stock N/A) they wont handle too much, if you drive like a granny, it sould last 6 months or so....

The coolant line labeled 3 in the pictures i had a few issues lining it up to the block, For 70-80 dollars you can get one made from the line with adjustable fittings also makes it a breeze and less chances of leaks, as these lines can bend. (michael2427)


Exhaust Manifold
The Standard Holden Manifold is used, be sure to check if it is cracked, also it would be a good idea if you replace the studs, by spraying with WD40 or similar
Turbo Dump Pipe
the holden one is fine, you can get a larger one
Dump to Cat pipe
The standard one is used, although you can get a larger one made up
Crossover Pipe
It has got one fitting on the side, which is a Vacuume hose that goes onto the AAC valve at the rear of the intake plenum
Injectors
the top of the injectors should be BROWN coloured, you MUST use Turbo injectors with a Turbo Computer, you CANNOT mix and match, if you use NON TURBO INJECTORS the motor will not get enough fuel, and most likley wont last over a week
Computer
You NEED a turbo computer in order to run the turbo injectors, an Auto computer will run both manual and auto cars, but a manual computer will not run an auto car.
Computer Identification
3TA = Turbo Auto
3TM = Turbo Manual
3EA = Non Turbo Auto
3EM = Non Turbo Manual
If no stickers on cover, Open the ecu, A turbo ecu will have a second green computer board on it for the knock sensor
Oil and Water lines
they bolt onto provisions made in the later model VL Series commonly konwn as series 2. it is advised that if you have an early one, to get a S2 motor to use (see Picture Below)
the water return goes to a heater hose on the other side of the engine with a T piece

[KALAY]

Parts you will need

Turbo Dump to cat pipe
Turbo Exhaust Manifold
Turbo Injectors
Turbo Dump pipe
See picture above (number 5 in it)
Turbo Computer
Crossover pipe
**OR**
Intercooler kit (i.e GKTEK)
Oil and Water lines
Intake Elbow

See Detailed images below










Misc Parts
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Turbo Gasket
Middle plenum gasket
Dump to engine pipe gasket
Engine pipe to cat gasket
New Exhaust Studs with Nuts and Washers
[img studs and nuts]
3/4 90 Degree Bend hose, 3/4 BSP to 3/4 Barb Brass Fitting
[img oil drain fitting]
14x1.5mm Banjo Bolt with 2 washers (brass or alloy)
12x1.25mm Banjo Bolt with 2 washers (brass or alloy)
Silicon Hoses (Or rubber, doesnt matter)
Hose Clamps
Heater Hose


HOW TO DO IT

*Removing Old parts*
Disconnect your Battery
Releve Fuel Pressure
Jack the vehicle up and place it sturdly on stands
1. Drain your water and oil
2. Remove your intake pipeing between the AFM and Throttle Body
3. Remove your Exhaust manifold up until your Cat
4. Remove the top half of your Plenum
5. Spray The circled bolts with CRC/WD40/RP7
6. After some time, remove these 3 bolts
7. Clean the gaskets from the Plenum from the Exhaust side of the block and the Cat (shove a rag in the runners to stop crap getting inside them)
8. Spray CRC onto the Exhaust Studs, and use the 2 nut trick to remove them
9. Remove the Injector Rail and Injectors Remember, to MARK YOUR INJECTORS (release the pressure by cranking the car with the fuel pump fuse out) (remember the return and feed pipes and mark them)

*Installing New Parts*
1.Using the 2 nut trick again, Install the new exhast studs makings sure they are in firm and not cross threaded
2. Put the new exhaust gasket on the studs, and place the Turbo and Exhaust manifold on it, do up a few bolts slightly
3. line up the oil and water lines on the block, and bolt them up gently
4. do up the exhaust manifold, torque it up according to the manual
5. Do up the oil and water lines on the block
6. source a water hose, and place a T piece in the heater hose for your water return pipe
7. Install the Dump to Cat pipe using new gaskets and possibly sticky exhaust stuff to stop leaks
8. Install the Turbo Injectors and connect the fuel lines
9. Bolt on the top half of the plenum using a new gasket
10. Bolt up your Intake elbow to the front of the turbo
11. Bolt up your Cross Over pipe from the Turbo to the Throttle body (or install an intercooler)
12. Remove the passenger side kick panel and computer which resides in there and install the turbo computer
13. Refil your oil and water making sure to BLEED your water system
14. make sure you got fuel pressure, and start it up, checking over the engine, to see if any oil leaks, water leaks. there may be smoke due to the new gaskets, but that is fine



*****Disclaimer*****
I take absolutly no responsibility in this guide, its only instructions, if you stuff up and blow your motor, it is NOT and i repeat NOT my problem. Please take care when you do ANY mechanical work to a car, follow safety procedures, if your not sure about anything STOP and ask somebody that knows, or get somebody else to do it.

Note this is a work in progress, i will update it when i get more info

Guys, please if you have found any problems, either post here if you can, or send me a PM so i can update it... this will STOP countless threads about it...

Only Calaisturbo.com.au is allowed to have this document, any others are an infrigment of my copyright

Special thanks to the following helpers
Dazza102 - putting this thread up
Turbz - Pictures
Michael2470 - various info
5spdvl - various info

[vlwagz]

well done man im sure this will be very handy for alot of people.

[KALAY]

Guys, if ANYBODY has a good pic of any of the items that do NOT have photo's please shoot off a pm, or post it up, so i can intergrate it with the main post.

Turbo Dump pipe

Turbo Dump to cat pipe

Turbo Injectors

Turbo Computer

Crossover pipe

Oil and Water lines

Intake Elbow

and the photo wehre it shows the S2 block side, where the oil and water lines bolt up

[Dazza102]

Good stuff MaD_WoG,

some of might of noticed the main sticky in the non turbo section regarding this conversion isn't working anymore (the original posters website has been dead for a long while now - link to it here: http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=9623).

I'd like to see this tech thread hopefully get built up and in turn replace that dead sticky - if anyone can help MaD_WoG with photos and additional info that would be a great help.

If anyone has the old pictures from the old website that would be great also,

Cheers,

Daz

[Grega]

mad_wog - you rock. thanks for the efforts here mate.

edit : ps dazza102 : that old site you speak of : sorta bits and pieces via here : http://web.archive.org/web/200702092...chris_white82/

[shonkytrb]

this should stop alot of stupid questions that seem to pop up all the time over and over.

[KALAY]

Updated the Parts Pictures, thanks to Member Turbz (the image of the block and the image of the misc parts)

[KALAY]

People... anybody have any info i should add???

trying to get this as large as possible which will stop alot of silly questions every 3 days

[michael2427]

little info like,
Filling car full of a Higher Octane Fuel should be first step.

N/A Fuel Pump Is fine to use with the conversion

N/A Oil Pump Is fine to use with the convserion

N/A Fuel reg can be used with the conversion (Not With Turbo Plenum)

N/A Fuel Rail Can Be used with VLT injectors (Only With N/A Plenum)

N/A Plenum can be used with the conversion (Flows Better Too)

N/A Auto Transmission is hit & miss, highly recommend the first to do list is to get it bulit stronger or Aid it with Transmission Cooler that may increase its life some what, as costs to buy/replace one would reach around $300-400 proffesionally done

Also a warning your messing with a 20 year old engine, Rubber lines break easily like Coolant, Vac, so be cautious this will happen easily

I found it easier too mark the injector plugs to the location like 1,2,3 tags as its a breeze too hook them up and save confusion

The coolant line labeled 3 in the pictures i had a few issues lining it up to the block, For 70-80 dollars you can get one made from the line with adjustable fittings also makes it a breeze and less chances of leaks, as these lines can bend.

Make sure you have copper washers for them banjo bolts and block side aswell for the oil & coolant lines

if i can think of anything else i'll add it

[Skitzvk]

ive read on here. that you can run vlt injectors with n/a ecu and it runs a little rich . but leaves out the chance of leaning out

[5spdvl]

People will hate me, BUT.......

-should probably change the head gasket for when you get boost happy

Will look in my stash for decent photos.

[KALAY]

Originally Posted by Skitzvk

ive read on here. that you can run vlt injectors with n/a ecu and it runs a little rich . but leaves out the chance of leaning out

yeah... nah, if your gonna do half a job, get the turbo and sit it in the boot...
be much better if you do it properly, as running very rich like they do will
have other problems, cat converter not liking it, o2 sensor, really bad fuel
economy

im not having a go at ya mate, just you spending close to 1500 or so, why not spend another 200 or so for a computer...

to the other 2 monkeys, 5spd and michael, thanks ill add them in, and if you got pics, ill credit them to you if you like, also turbz, if you want your pics credited to you, just ask, and ill edit them....

thanks guys.. keep it coming, trying to get this post nice and large..

[VLT-025]

Awesome write up. Great help for someone with no experience trying to visualise how it goes together.

[boom]

mad wog. i spoke to jack about this topic and this is what he said:

Originally Posted by ATMO_BT1

The turbo ecu is identical to the n/a one, it just lacks the knock sensor which n/as don't have anyway. I've personally had n/a ecus on turbo cars with stock turbo injectors and they were fine.

Jack

Originally Posted by ATMO_BT1

All VL computers can run n/a and turbo injectors however no others. N/A injectors can be used with a turbo at very low boost however I wouldn't recommend it anymore than I'd recommend........

Jack

[michael2427]

Why you would even take the risk of running a N/A ecu is beyond me, Give it 2 months and you will want too up the boost anyway...who runs on stock boost anyway :\. Like Mad Dog said why take short cuts when your spending over 1000-1500 of parts on the engine
Some more info

3TA = Turbo Auto
3TM = Turbo Manual
If no stickers on cover, Open the ecu, A turbo ecu will have a second green computer board on it for the knock sensor

[Grega]

um, couple of things just sprung to mind.
the knock sensor. mad_wog i'll dig you up a photo (i just bought a whole kit to do this) - i can't remember what pin you need to connect that to - 14 or 21 or something?
theres a plastic surge can as well from the VLT which needs hooking up somewhere?
theres also the VLT charcoal canister thingo which needs rigging up as well (its different to the NA one)

some little things you might want to do before this sorta conversion (i'm putting a list together which is doing my head in) is replace the fuel pump with a fresh item (both lift and hi pressure feed) - replace the fuel filter, air filter and o2 sensor while you're on the job.

other little things to keep in mind get a nice free flowing exhaust 2.5" or bigger
if you've an SL like me - you need both LSD and rear disks
you need at minimum the VL turbo rotors and calipers (which will mean new front bearings too)
1" master cylinder for added stopping goodliness
cheap insurance too - get your injectors recoed / flowed prior to fitment.

my 2c.

[[GRK-WPN]]

forgot emissions mate, vl na and vlt have different charcoal canisters, i think u could even use the r32 canister, looks pretty much the same as vl style

[CHRGD6]

Originally Posted by michael2427

Why you would even take the risk of running a N/A ecu is beyond me, Give it 2 months and you will want too up the boost anyway...who runs on stock boost anyway :\. Like Mad Dog said why take short cuts when your spending over 1000-1500 of parts on the engine

I disagree. I had an NA computer in my single cam set up and made 230rwhp on 10/11 psi through a T3/T4. That was on an old motor of questionable past but it lasted forever, and is still going. We tuned it on the Maatouks dyno and never had an issue with pinging, running rich - the motor was never in any 'risk' as you say

[rusty577]

Very Nice right up Mad_WoG.

Once and for all!

Na ecu will run Na injectors.

Turbo ecu will run turbo injectors.

You can't mix and match simple as that.

[CHRGD6]

Originally Posted by rusty577

Very Nice right up Mad_WoG.

Once and for all!

Na ecu will run Na injectors.

Turbo ecu will run turbo injectors.

You can't mix and match simple as that.

Fail.

You can.

An NA ECU didn't have any hassle running my turbo injectors

[boom]

lol he seemed so sure of it as well. boys jack and liam have both proven that you can use the n/a ecu with turbo injectors. what more is there to prove??

[michael2427]

Originally Posted by CHRGD6

I disagree. I had an NA computer in my single cam set up and made 230rwhp on 10/11 psi through a T3/T4. That was on an old motor of questionable past but it lasted forever, and is still going. We tuned it on the Maatouks dyno and never had an issue with pinging, running rich - the motor was never in any 'risk' as you say

Why did you get it tuned when you think n/a ecu is fine with vlt injecotrs? personally my old vlct had no dramas on 8-9psi with the higher Comp on the vlt ecu (No tune needed). So what your trying to say is...Yes you can run a n/a ecu on vlt injectors but any boost over stock you need to get it tuned? To make it run better? as we do have people doing this that will run 10psi on a n/a ecu and come back here and you siad it was fine
Just to make note your car didn't have a vlt bottom end or a de-comp plate right? That would make it easier to run the n/a ecu

[rusty577]

^^ You can't tune the factory ecu, unless you have a niztune or similar board.

Im not saying you cant run na ecu with na injectors and run t3 on stock boost, but no more.

Originally Posted by CHRGD6

Fail.

You can.

An NA ECU didn't have any hassle running my turbo injectors

lol

Go take a look at your afr on a dyno

It will run, but like ****.

Whatever floats your boat I guess.

[CHRGD6]

Originally Posted by michael2427

Why did you get it tuned when you think n/a ecu is fine with vlt injecotrs? personally my old vlct had no dramas on 8-9psi with the higher Comp on the vlt ecu (No tune needed). So what your trying to say is...Yes you can run a n/a ecu on vlt injectors but any boost over stock you need to get it tuned? To make it run better? as we do have people doing this that will run 10psi on a n/a ecu and come back here and you siad it was fine
Just to make note your car didn't have a vlt bottom end or a de-comp plate right? That would make it easier to run the n/a ecu

Because I wanted to see what power it was making and if we could potentially pick up any more power. A dyno isn't simply a device used to tune aftermarket ECUs, it was originally developed as a diagnostic tool and in this instance it's what we were using it for. When I say tuned, because it's obviously elluding some people, I should clarify that I'm aware that the factory ECU is untunable, however variables like timing and boost can be played with and adjusted to get the best possible result. A 'tune up' more than a 'tune' if you will.

"Any boost over stock" is also a misnoma. We were using a T3/T4, so a bigger turbo that factory, on between 10-12psi. The bottom end was tired, old and flogged - it had an indescript amount of Ks on it however it never complained.

Originally Posted by rusty577

^^ You can't tune the factory ecu, unless you have a niztune or similar board.

Im not saying you cant run na ecu with na injectors and run t3 on stock boost, but no more.

lol

Go take a look at your afr on a dyno

It will run, but like ****.

Whatever floats your boat I guess.

By the same token I'm not talking about whacking a 35/40 on and dial in 20psi using an NA computer and VLT injectors. All I'm trying to prove is that the blanket statement:

Originally Posted by rusty577

Once and for all!

Na ecu will run Na injectors.

Turbo ecu will run turbo injectors.

You can't mix and match simple as that.

Is misleading.