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Old 06-10-07, 10:07   #26
icacha
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niche
Conectors and loom crimps are such a huge issue, also some looms have
cracks near hot spots where water gets in and copper chloride results but
yeah ECU will go into limp mode - however, I got the odd impression your
setup has a "dead spot" which implies it will go past it with a little effort.

When ECU switches to limp mode, it just wont go past 2000 no matter what
you do (as long as its not down hill etc) and will give a loud cough sound when
it does fuel cut... It seems pretty violent to some..

Which is it icacha ?
it will go past 2000 jst takes its time 2 get there... in park it'll rev up no problum wont rev out tho...main problum is jst under load... it'll hardly move up the road until the revs are up high
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Old 06-10-07, 11:03   #27
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definantly running very lean i would say by the looks of the exhaust manifold, you also need to check things like cam timing, ignition timing etc go rite through all of it so u no exactly where your at, you will be suprised wat a good tune can do even with a stock ecu
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Old 06-10-07, 11:32   #28
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i reckon it is just retarded timing
= hot exhaust and no response

what is the timing set at?
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Old 06-10-07, 12:01   #29
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Defently timming!

reset ur standard ecu codes, take it for a drive then put whatever codes apear up here and i can tell u what they are or u can use the search!

Not reving past 1500-2000rpm does sound like the afm but u never now.

Cheak ur codes!
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Old 06-10-07, 12:31   #30
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Cam timing might be out a notch or two, if you have had your head off and
followed the service manual it will be out by a notch because the standard
service manual has a typo, this is corrected in the VLT manual.

If you havent had the head off then either the cam tensioner has come
severly loose or a couple of teeth have stripped off the cam belt, the former
due to wear and lack of lubrication, the latter due to faulty belt or cam is
very tight in cam tunnel causing huge strain on belt which can make it slip
a notch or tear a notch or two, rare but possible.

But as others have said, dizzy timing is well worth checking, see if you can
move crank pulley at all by hand if so then its rooted, if not then reset timing
to 12 deg and try that, 15 is normal but 12 will be safer for time being if
you need to attend to other things then if all else fixed go back up to 15
for normal VLT bottom or 12 for n/a bottom...

And yes also check codes,, Worth it !
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Old 06-10-07, 15:04   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niche
Cam timing might be out a notch or two, if you have had your head off and
followed the service manual it will be out by a notch because the standard
service manual has a typo, this is corrected in the VLT manual.

If you havent had the head off then either the cam tensioner has come
severly loose or a couple of teeth have stripped off the cam belt, the former
due to wear and lack of lubrication, the latter due to faulty belt or cam is
very tight in cam tunnel causing huge strain on belt which can make it slip
a notch or tear a notch or two, rare but possible.

But as others have said, dizzy timing is well worth checking, see if you can
move crank pulley at all by hand if so then its rooted, if not then reset timing
to 12 deg and try that, 15 is normal but 12 will be safer for time being if
you need to attend to other things then if all else fixed go back up to 15
for normal VLT bottom or 12 for n/a bottom...

And yes also check codes,, Worth it !
i havent had the head off but the guy i got it off did he replaced 2 heads on it because they cracked... cant move the crank pulley by hand...
also how am i ment 2 check the codes??
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Old 07-10-07, 18:40   #32
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wat are peoples opinions about running a microtech mt8 on this setup can pik 1 up 4 $600 worth it? ...or should i go 4 a newer 1??
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Old 07-10-07, 21:06   #33
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if ya motor wont rev out in neutral.. then not going anywhere when "holding it flat" isnt the auto slipping... its just the motor wont rev
if the auto was slipping it would rev out no worries..but you wouldntget anywhere
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Old 08-10-07, 00:00   #34
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yeh it does rev out once it gets goin man jst takes a while 2 get up there once the revs r up it does alrite starts 2 ping at 110 tho... ask phil... the autos slippin
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Old 08-10-07, 00:07   #35
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man.. WHAT THE HELL do you mean it starts to ping at 110? Its fuel related then man! Shouldve mentioned this before

Check your fuel pump and fuel filter (thats what i would do first) and even check your fuel pressure near your fuel rail/reg..

AND

dont drive it if its pinging.. JEEEZUZ!

Easy way to check if its yoru fuel pump is to see if its making wierd noises and primes when your car is cold..

TURN your ignition to on and you should hear teh fuel pump priming.. if it doesnt make a noise.. its your pump..

Also your auto slipping is another problem by the sounds of things..
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Old 08-10-07, 09:28   #36
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nah not the fuel pump its fine.. fuel flow is fine...only been driving it round town 2 get bits for it..
yeh hopefully gettin a new auto on satday and comp.. then go get it tuned
only found out it was pinging yesterday n e way

Last edited by icacha; 08-10-07 at 09:34.
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Old 08-10-07, 22:30   #37
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if the auto was slipping it wouldnt take a while to get there.. would jsut rev fairly freely
running a big turbo on stock ecu and injectors.. will be running lean in the top end most likely..and no tuning except for running f,a boost with that turbo will stop that..
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Old 12-10-07, 22:28   #38
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dyno it... and fix all of you other issues first..
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Old 16-10-07, 12:36   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty577
Defently timming!

reset ur standard ecu codes, take it for a drive then put whatever codes apear up here and i can tell u what they are or u can use the search!

Not reving past 1500-2000rpm does sound like the afm but u never now.

Cheak ur codes!
had mi kick pannel off last nite driving home and noticed the ecu lights lookin at em drivng home lookd like the red light was flashing with the green but got home n looked again n think the red light was jst stayin on n i was the green light flashig (which made it look like the red was flashing 2) the red 1 ment 2 stay on?? ill get the codes that r in it now and post em up... then ill reset it and put them 1's up...
cheers mate

jst checked mi codes... before resetting it... got 14, 23, 24, 31 and 34 kept going through drove it over 10km stoped turned the engine off depressed the throttle pendel etc.. at the end of all that 3 codes were left cumin up... 31 im told is ment 2 cum up n should b the only 1 after all that is done but the other 2 im getting is 23 and 34...??? after that i cleared the codes and repeated it got 14, 23, 24, 31 and 34 again.. and the same thing happened... Was left with the same 3 codes again.. 31 which is ment 2 b there and 23 and 34????

Last edited by icacha; 16-10-07 at 17:14. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 16-10-07, 16:11   #40
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23 some TPS fault
24 Neutral switch (for auto I guess).
34 Detonation sensor circuit,

Good to clean connectors on all those items and make very sure that none of
the spark leads are anywhere near any of the signal leads like TPS or injector
cables or CAS etc etc Need one to two inches air gap at all times to stop
corona discharge - ie. Doesnt matter if spark leads are perfect insulators with
no leak - there is still corona effects...!
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Old 16-10-07, 17:15   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niche
23 some TPS fault
24 Neutral switch (for auto I guess).
34 Detonation sensor circuit,

Good to clean connectors on all those items and make very sure that none of
the spark leads are anywhere near any of the signal leads like TPS or injector
cables or CAS etc etc Need one to two inches air gap at all times to stop
corona discharge - ie. Doesnt matter if spark leads are perfect insulators with
no leak - there is still corona effects...!
sorry dude the 24 was ment 2 b the 34... yeh ill give em all a clean and move the leads c how it goes
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Old 16-10-07, 17:28   #42
Niche
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Do the ECU connector as well, remove kick panel, take out ECU, unplug,
spray both sides with "contact cleaner" plug in and unplug and do this about
a dozen times, unplug then spray again and wait to dry before plugging back in.
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Old 16-10-07, 19:13   #43
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no worries mate ill give it a go 2mora.. n if the lights dont go away? wat else could it b?
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Old 16-10-07, 19:17   #44
Niche
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If you are still getting code 23 then the TPS is faulty or it might be wrongly positioned
or there is a loom fault or even an ECU input damage if any spark leads have been
near the wires...
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