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Old 01-10-07, 19:02   #1
ICU*PIG
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Somethings draining my battery??

For the past 3 weeks my car battery has been dieing, I cant seem to find out what the problem is i found 1 thing my remote wire was touching the power on the amp, but other than that something is still driaing my battery. Ive checked to see if my boot or gluve box light stays on but they dont. Some one help....!!!And another thing wen i do get my car started by jumper leeds after all the popping and splattering and coughing, If i turn my hazards on my sub goes to the flash of the hazards. And wen i turn my car on and of 2 seconds latter the sub makes a bang noise. My lights aswell when i click em over the sub goes doof doof doof lol abit weird!
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Old 01-10-07, 19:33   #2
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sounds like ya got a first rate wiring job there lol. start by turning car to off, and start checking with a multimeter for current flow through fusebox. check amp too, and the headdeck. once you fing flowing current, youll know what loom its is on. First guess would be headdeck wired to the wrong source. For example when i bought my car, the wipers didnt work. when I fixed them, whenever I turned the car off, the stereo would stay on, unless I turned the wipers to an "on" position. Weird huh?
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Old 01-10-07, 20:15   #3
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mmmm, heres a few things:-
  1. Leaky high grade capacitor for the amp
  2. Leaky/faulty regulator for the alternator
  3. Faulty ECU that is chewing up power for its memory backup or its on...
  4. Faulty dash regulator for the clock and instrumentation
  5. Internal fault in the battery, get a hydrometer and check the acid SG
  6. Fault in alarm circuit or its a cheapie and draws too much current
  7. Some relay staying on but it has a shorted turn such as

Do a current leak test with a multimeter and that should nail down the
average drain then use a bit of math, let us know what current drain u get ?

For example:-

Car battery has roughly 60AmpHr capacity. So if you find you have a total
current drain of say 500mA (1/2 an amp) then the time it would take to
drop your battery to complete discharge is 60/0.5 --> 120 hrs which is
about 5 days,

So the 3 weeks represents 21 days a current drain of approx 110mA which is
about on par with the ECU and maybe clock and alarm current drain...

So if you current drain is only 25mA then it should last 4 times longer and
that points to a failing battery.

BTW: One way batteries fail (quickly) is if you bang or tap the terminals,
never ever do that as the lead oxide inside is very fragile and tapping it will
make it fall out of the lead plate and cause a short over a period of time...


You might need a top up solar panel or a little plug pack to just cover the
normal drain or use a Four Wheel Drive switch to disconnect battery totally...

This is all assuming your battery is in reasonably good condition,
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Old 02-10-07, 16:26   #4
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Cheers, Yea my battery is brand new not a cheap one either, Its drains my battery with in a day. Ill have to do what u said ill get bak to you once ive done it all. thanks
.
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Old 02-10-07, 16:30   #5
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cheek altinater wire to battary mine was brocken had the same problem well kind of the same
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Old 02-10-07, 17:11   #6
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hey mike
thats only assuming he hasnt been running the car during that 3 week period right? cause otherwise it could be a bigger current drain or watever

Really the laziest way is wat i told u in the other forum, get one of those multimeter clamp things and put it over the wires from the battery and just pull fuses out one at a time and that will narrow it down then u can go look at the things on that circuit

let us know how u go man
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Old 02-10-07, 17:16   #7
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Amp.

Get it wired up by someone that knows what they are doing....
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Old 02-10-07, 17:18   #8
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Fair enough Moggy06 though,

If the poster doesnt have a multimeter already then he can get a cheapie
which often has a 2Amp or 10Amp DC scale. Even if it has a 2Amp then
these are often fused and you can still use it if you start out with no fuses
and intercept the battery connection to the car by taking off the terminal,
connect the meter then install one fuse at a time until you see current rise.

DC clamp meters are rather more pricey and some suffer from variation when
reading low values but sure if you have a good one and its handy then its ok.
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Old 02-10-07, 17:38   #9
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lol u know far to much techical stuff mike :P

and yeh i dare say ur amp has some wiring issues there if its doing all the weird things u described
there not all that hard to wire up so have a look at it urself and make sure the wiring from the engine bay to the amp is all in good order
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Old 04-10-07, 15:55   #10
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Thanks for the info guys, I removed my sub and amp, reconnected a coolant temp sensor as mine was snapt, re wired airflow meter because it was popping and splattering, all i need to do now is try start it and see if it drains over night. I still dont really understand your post about fuses. When it starts its abit rough on idle. :S

Quote:
Originally Posted by ANK
cheek altinater wire to battary mine was brocken had the same problem well kind of the same
Is that the brown wire i got a wire just abouve the altinater thats not pluged in into any thing i cant see where it would plug in either, Its been like that for a good 3 to 4 months since ive noticed it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggy06
lol u know far to much techical stuff mike :P

and yeh i dare say ur amp has some wiring issues there if its doing all the weird things u described
there not all that hard to wire up so have a look at it urself and make sure the wiring from the engine bay to the amp is all in good order
Yea my power cable was abit dodgie, im just waiting to jump start my car and then see if it still drains, my alarm could be the next thing thats draining my battery. I doubt its my deck even though i got a wire running straight to da battery with a fuse on it so when i turn off and start my car it doesnt lose memmory, You no what i mean?

Last edited by ICU*PIG; 04-10-07 at 15:59. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 20-10-07, 01:24   #11
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hmmmm

I have a similar problem
My battery went dead after 4 days

I'll have to check some of these idea's out
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Old 20-10-07, 01:31   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ICU*PIG

Is that the brown wire i got a wire just abouve the altinater thats not pluged in into any thing i cant see where it would plug in either, Its been like that for a good 3 to 4 months since ive noticed it.


mate that brown wire not pluged up is your coil diagnosis wire(where you can read rpm from your coil)(sorry if this isnt the corect teminology niche,just cant remember)its never plugged up,its there so you can read rpm acuratly without pulling the loom apart.
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Last edited by revneck; 20-10-07 at 01:33.
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Old 20-10-07, 02:37   #13
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There is a dwell feedback wire from the power transistor to the ECU, this is so
the ECU can run its internal timer as well as have a little diagnostics and bring
up the ignition code if there is a problem with that signal.

Dwell is the period of time the coil is driven before the field collapses, dwell
is controlled as a compromise for spark energy versus angle of duration to
ensure there is enough spark energy at all rpms...

@ICU*PIG
-Just get a digital multimer and set it to amps, minimum 2 amp range.
-Take out all the fuses from the fuserail.
-Take off a battery lead.
-Make sure key is out of ignition and all things are off, radio etc.
-Put the meter leads between battery post and the lead you took off.
(Use a croc clip or other way to keep it connected and fixed in position)
-Write down the reading you get, with no fuses it should be almost zero.
-Put back one fuse at a time and watch for any change in meter reading.

Note: DONT start engine or ever put key back in ignition during above tests.

At some point you will find the meter starts to show something, let us know
what this is, if its on a 2 Amp scale - ie 0.00 to 1.99 Amps then it might well
show a reading such as 0.10 or something like that or more and you will also
see which fuse number led to the highest reading, let us know and we can
inspect that circuit

Edit:
A bit rough on idle might be ignition related or simple as cold start valve,
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Last edited by Niche; 20-10-07 at 02:40.
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