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Old 03-11-10, 14:18   #26
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Here's a VS interior pic. The speed alert/warning is the square shaped box next to the air vents. Sorry about the pic, i wouldve taken one close up of my interior but my camera isnt working

There is a set button and if you hold the 2 arrows down at the same time it will turn the speed alert function off.

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Old 03-11-10, 15:28   #27
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Haha, I think you're the most qualified person here to talk about programming after seeing that circuit diagram! Why not reverse engineer an existing unit (VN-VS)?

Where is the speed input?
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Old 03-11-10, 17:44   #28
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Haha, I think you're the most qualified person here to talk about programming after seeing that circuit diagram! Why not reverse engineer an existing unit (VN-VS)?

Where is the speed input?
I did have help drawing that out. I really have to thank some of the guys on the Fiero forum. Now my brother is on board helping me out (who coincidentally is an electrician) and built quite a few kit cars in his time. It's the programming stuff that is a bit of an issue so from what I now want to do with speed alert have to figure out how it will work with a modified schematic for speed input.

This will be cool if it all works out.

I'm currently in London until December. I'm going to see whether I can pull something local apart to see how it works but hoping the answer is provided by someone on a forum. My biggest challenge is breaking up the VL digital clock to allow the room I need and relocate the rods to where the controls for the speed alert would be. So going to design a front plate that looks the part.

Has anyone ever pulled apart the clock before?

BTW: Thanks for the pic Woggster. It's similar to how I remember it.

So to over view what now needs to be done for this mod.

- determine the requirements for a speed alert and amend schematic / purchase required bits
- get the ADDITIONAL program for a speed alert and add to the PIC microcontroller
- a forum member is sending me a "donor" back end of a dash for me to play with and position the LEDs
- a mate of mine in Perth is filling in the 2 rod holes for the clear fascia the seeing whether his mate can do a one off injection / vacuum form hole-less fascia (or if it's too expensive to do, send it on to me in London and I'll have a go here)
- obtain and pull apart a "donor" clock and split the LED from the rod controls and make a bezel for it to fit into the "donor" back end of the dash.
- Make up a 2 window centre panel in the dash for clock and digital speedo (this will be easy once everything is in position).
- Get a printer / sign-writer to copy the existing pattern then make a design with 2 windows and a km/h under the second window
- Make a faceplate for the controls

Besides that I'm busy with the other modifications I've proposed. However I think this will be the "jewel" of the changes given I do not think anyone has attempted it before.

---------- Post added 04-11-10 at 12:35 ----------



A few of you may have seen the question I've posted in another thread regarding the space between the "Low Coolant" and "Low Fuel" lights.

If it turns out that there is an empty cavity there, this conversion will be so much easier. So from my list above;

- determine the requirements for a speed alert and amend schematic / purchase required bits
- get the ADDITIONAL program for a speed alert and add to the PIC microcontroller
- a forum member is sending me a "donor" back end of a dash for me to play with and position the LEDs
- Make up a 2 window centre panel in the dash for clock and digital speedo (this will be easy once everything is in position).
- Get a printer / sign-writer to copy the existing pattern then make a design with 2 windows and a km/h under the second window
- Make a faceplate for the controls

This can now be easily produced as a kit with a replacement centre plate, LED for the cavity and controls to be installed on the dash and you'll have a digital speedo installed within 30mins. No butchering of the clock and not reproduction of a vacuum formed clear plastic fascia.

But someone needs to confirm that cavity between the two warning lights.

Last edited by EvilPet; 03-11-10 at 17:59.
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Old 07-11-10, 10:32   #29
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oil pressure? i know there is an oil pressure sensor there which was only on the calais (and probably other upmarket models) as when mine went i needed to find an oil pressure sensor not a sender. its a tad more complicated than the basic system....

oh wait hold on. i think thats because there is a low pressure or low level sensor for the stockers and for the vl's with the oil pressure gauge it has to be a little more complex. someone with a owners guide in front of them might be able to help? i am in london aswell and deary me, forgot to pack my owners manual.
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Old 08-11-10, 06:31   #30
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Not sure if you know man but those VR - VS speed alert things, there is a way you can make them display your exact speed on the digital screen, could be helpful if you could utilise the circuit or however if works. I think you have to start the car while holding down the two buttons or something like that
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Old 08-11-10, 10:27   #31
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Not sure if you know man but those VR - VS speed alert things, there is a way you can make them display your exact speed on the digital screen, could be helpful if you could utilise the circuit or however if works. I think you have to start the car while holding down the two buttons or something like that

- I now have the combined Speed Alert and Digital Speedo (real time) program.

I now have to wait until December when I'm back to check whether this all works. In the mean time I've figured out where the MODE / UP / DOWN buttons of the speed alert will be located. I bought some green LEDs and will make some clear O-rings around the small buttons. Well, get a buddy to do that.... All I'll do then is get a sign-writer to copy the design from the cruise control fonts and make a nice matt black decal over them with the text.
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Old 08-11-10, 11:33   #32
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- I now have the combined Speed Alert and Digital Speedo (real time) program.

I now have to wait until December when I'm back to check whether this all works. In the mean time I've figured out where the MODE / UP / DOWN buttons of the speed alert will be located. I bought some green LEDs and will make some clear O-rings around the small buttons. Well, get a buddy to do that.... All I'll do then is get a sign-writer to copy the design from the cruise control fonts and make a nice matt black decal over them with the text.
I can help with the design, but we're based in melbourne. let me know
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Old 08-11-10, 21:46   #33
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Originally Posted by RB2GO View Post
Not sure if you know man but those VR - VS speed alert things, there is a way you can make them display your exact speed on the digital screen, could be helpful if you could utilise the circuit or however if works. I think you have to start the car while holding down the two buttons or something like that
RB2GO u r right. if u hold the up and down button while turning the car on the speed alert turns to what is called police mode! the red light stays flashing n it displays real time speed! (digital speedo)
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Old 08-11-10, 22:26   #34
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no **** awsome.
keep this up, and everyone will end up wanting somthing els to put in there vls's
somthing diffarent is always good in a way

keep up the good work, more pics
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Old 08-11-10, 23:35   #35
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no **** awsome.
keep this up, and everyone will end up wanting somthing els to put in there vls's
somthing diffarent is always good in a way

keep up the good work, more pics
You asked for it....



(thanks to wogpsi for the two pics above)

1st cavity = 22mm x 12mm
2nd = 22mm x 12mm
3rd = 22mm x 20mm

Need to move the first shelf up 1-2mm and the second shelf down 1-2mm and voila! a very nice fit for 10.2mm White LED Digits - I have to cannibalise a clock to get the green filter. I was going to get the GREEN DIGIT LEDs but thought I'll try and stay as true as to the VL dash design and look as I can. The green LED would have not matched the clock LED. Looking around on the net where I can get sheets of the green filters.

A hole needs to be cut in the cover plate slightly bigger than the window for the clock. Then the window bordered by either WHITE or RED or even GREY like the clock (see the window for the clock)

---------- Post added 09-11-10 at 00:41 ----------

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I can help with the design, but we're based in melbourne. let me know
Ok - I'll keep that in mind. Basically I want a decal that will fit over the 3 buttons (ie. so 3 holes professionally / perfectly cut) then just like the cruise control have a white border. Then some text in the same font as the cruise control next to each button. By the way, I'm using this plate (where my alarm light and big button is) for the speed alert / control buttons. I'm currently looking for an "unmolested" plate.



---------- Post added 09-11-10 at 00:43 ----------

Just received the PIC microchip. now have to program it with the source code I have for both the digital speedometer and speed alert.



---------- Post added 09-11-10 at 17:52 ----------

Ok - I woke up this morning and had and idea.

I'm going to use the Cruise Control faceplate / buttons for;

- MODE (the Orange Cruise Control On/Off Switch)

- UP + (Current grey one)

- DOWN - (Current grey one)

I have to finds an effecive way to erase "ON/OFF" / "CRUISE CONTROL" / "RESUME" / "RESET" - Ideas? Metho

Then get a sign-writer to make up new stick on decals;

"MODE" - Centred in the first box

" SPEED
ALERT " (Centred on two lines)

SPEED + (in the middle box)

SPEED - (in the bottom box)

QUESTION: Are the current controls backlit? Does anyone have a picture of the whole unit lit at night? The "trade-off" might be the backlighting if I stick a decal over it.

BUT You'd probably agree, this is the best way to represent the buttons that doesn't look out of place.


NOW - To pull one apart and see whether I can cannibalise the faceplate and buttons.

Can anyone help? I have posted elsewhere - looking for a broken / cheap donor unit.



UPDATE: Now that I know the length / dimensions of the cavity between the low coolant and low fuel lights, the issue is finding a seven segment LED 3 digit component to fit in there.
The other one I outlined earlier in this thread will not do the job as it's too big.
Rang up a few companies in China today that make seven segment LEDs and whether they have a standard one that would fit. I'm thinking if I place an order for 50 (minimum I can order), that should be enough to do my prototype and start making kits for this conversion.

Now the big question - does the VL clock have a white segment with a green filter or a green LED segment with a green filter?

Anyone know the answer?

Last edited by EvilPet; 09-11-10 at 20:48.
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Old 10-11-10, 22:28   #36
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heaps of thinking involved ..:P nice..
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Old 10-11-10, 23:06   #37
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heaps of thinking involved ..:P nice..
Just want to do this properly hence a lot of sleepless nights trying to figure how i'm going to do this and who can assist especially when it's time to rip out the instrument cluster (as I don't know how to do it) for a couple of days whilst it's modifed.
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Old 01-12-10, 05:33   #38
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Time for an Update

Almost finalised my design and the digital speedo cover plate and this is just about to be lasercut.



However, I would like some help in making sure the measurements are exact. If anyone would like to assist I would appreciate it. I can send the measurements and if you can confirm them for me that would be great. So design may change slightly if the measurements are currently out.

I've programmed the digital speedo / speed alert chip with the sourcecode and I think this is ready to go.

As mentioned previously, I decided to cannibalise a cruise control switch and use that for the speed alert buttons which will be located opposite to where the cruise control sits now. So both sides will look the same. I bought a bunch of switches from around the globe (actually more than a bunch - I've obsessed about this to make sure it looks right) and talked to a few companies in China about some custom switches but I reckon the cruise control switch still will look like it belongs there - just have to get the current lettering replaced. Lucky my current cruise control unit has had the knob so I don't mind pulling it part for the fascia.

I got the same green cellophane that is used for the clock and got some three digit, seven segment LEDs made up in China and I'm hoping I get a near match or exact match to the clock lumens and colour when all installed. Awaiting delivery of the samples and I should be able to start to fit this up mid December then install just before Christmas.

There's only so much I can do here in the UK with the parts that I have. I'm really hoping fingers crossed this all comes together in a few weeks.

My doors have been moulded for the Dynaudio speakers and these are being upholstered now with my precious roll of VL Group A velour and the door carpet I picked up recently in Melbourne and following the same HDT style pattern. BTW: The 6 inch speaker fits perfectly into the square hole in the door, almost like it was there for such a purpose. It all clears the central locking mechanism so am happy with the look and fit.









The A-pillar pod for the boost gauge is being upholstered too. A bracket was placed for easy fitment as pictured.



More updates soon on this and the TomTom being built /hidden into the dash-pad.

Last edited by EvilPet; 01-12-10 at 05:36.
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Old 01-12-10, 22:03   #39
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let us know if you need, help, no dramas
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Old 01-12-10, 23:01   #40
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let us know if you need, help, no dramas
Many thanks for the offer. Would like some help in confirming the measurements. The clock cover piece as you know needs to be exact. If you're able to do this PM me your email and I'll send the re-drafted artwork tomorrow. I want to square this up by Friday but it's up to me / us to confirm all the measurements for the sign-off prior to laser cutting. Someone else is assisting with this but two eyes over this will ensure that this is precise.
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Old 02-12-10, 07:22   #41
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love your work man, this car will be awesome when its done, keep up th good work
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Old 03-12-10, 05:24   #42
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Finalised Design - It's off to be laser cut now....



I finally got five sets of the components I need from my schematic delivered today. Five sets "just in case" I need some spares when assembling the prototype and also if successful, I guess I have four sets to build for other VL owners who want this mod.



Just now waiting for the 8mm Digit LED from China which should be here on 6th December.

Now roll on Perth!

I think we will be putting this all together on the 22nd / 23rd December when I'm back.

More updates then.
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Old 11-12-10, 08:45   #43
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UPDATE: Just got the central dash part back from the instrument panel maker.








How it fits up with the clock


Got a couple more made up to make a couple of spare kits.

Just waiting on the 8mm 3 digit seven segment LED from China which I'm getting made up for this project. I'm assured it will be delivered next week - well it better as I'm back in Perth the following week!

More to come....
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Old 13-12-10, 19:11   #44
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thats amazing mate keep up the good work cant wait till its finished u might have a fue people asking if you will sell it as a plug in kit too, for starters me.
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Old 13-12-10, 22:43   #45
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Looking great keep us all updated
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Old 13-12-10, 23:15   #46
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thats amazing mate keep up the good work cant wait till its finished u might have a fue people asking if you will sell it as a plug in kit too, for starters me.
Yeah - well that's the eventual intention.

I have 5 prototype kits with sourcecode loaded that needs to be soldered up.

The only thing is;

I'm converting a spare / broken cruise control switch to be the speed alert switches. I do not know whether VL owners would want to do that.

I'm going to see whether I can replicate the entire switch purpose built from a place here in the UK but that means the costs go up or I can supply the switches in basic button form and you can cut it how you want to mount (and get an old CC switch and do the modifications yourself) - or just cut 3 holes in the blank plate that is to the left of the dash and mount it there.

I'm using a CC switch as the whole setup will look factory. My aim and intention. Even getting some labels done for "Mode" / "Up" and "Down" - this has to look spot on in my eyes. If it doesn't look right, I'm going to get the panels made up from scratch.

But first things first, I will get it working on my car next Wednesday. My dash insides where the globes go is being slightly modified to accomodate the digits - this is all easy stuff you can do yourselves. I won't have the completed pictures of everything in until after new year but the whole digital speedo should be working Wednesday before I unplug it all for the final mounting.

Another update: I got my trims back but the trimmer did not follow instructions as he was drunk when he was finishing them according to the guy that is sorta managing things whilst I'm away and was present when he was finishing off. I'm not happy with the results.

As for the A-pillar pod - again, the upholsterer did not follow explicit directions from the guy that moulded the door panels to follow the grain of the cloth. More precious VL velour material is wasted. Has to get fixed now.

The dude has gone downhill apparently in the last 2 years since I last used him. Lost his trimming business and house. Lives in a caravan now. Last time I will use him.

I do not know why stuff like this gets screwed up for me.

Anyway here's some pics.


As mentioned above - the cloth grain wasn't matched per instructions - I'm getting this redone and unfortunately will have to use more of my precious VL Group A velour.





The idiot trimmer was rushing this through as my mate was around his place to pick it up. Didn't glue the carpet. - Didn't clean the fabric after sewing. Was drunk with the strong smell on alcohol on his breath according to my mate. Top bit (velour) is ok and luckily it matches but the carpet, well, at $120 a metre (as closest match to the original carpet is from a Rolls Royce), I may have to order more from the place in Melbourne. Unfortunately I believe I got the last of their 2008 roll (where the original piece on my doors was from) - so colour and integrity will not be 100% match up with the back doors.

Pulling my hair out on this one. I'll decide when I'm back whether to redo the carpets on all 4 doors to the 2009 carpet roll that the auto-trimmers in Melbourne had.



Lucky the front part of the carpet won't really be that visible once the door is shut BUT I'll decide next week what I'm going to do.




When I'm back in Perth next week, I'm getting a "Dynaudio by HDT" badge made up for the speaker grills where the current badge sits. Yes I know, HDT never brought this system out but my project brief is to make it look a retro-authentic as possible. A nicer little touch me thinks!

Last edited by EvilPet; 14-12-10 at 05:18.
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Old 14-12-10, 06:44   #47
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Looking good! I lvoe all the little details and stickers your making up to go along with this project, it's going to end up being something very different Keep us all updated
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Old 14-12-10, 14:25   #48
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UPDATE: TomTom Mounting

This is the mechanism which is going to be adapted to fit the TomTom and be moulded into the dash pad.

It may look familiar because it's off an old portable CD player. The mechanism is spring loaded and has a smooth release and rise action. Rather than go all motorised we thought that if Holden did have such a thing in the 80s, the mechanism would have been simple and cheap to manufacture.





This isn't the TomTom model I'm using as it's just for demo purposes only but mine hasn't been released yet and is in storage. You get the idea....

[Correction] - The TomTom model has just been released. Here it is:

http://www.tomtom.com/en_gb/products...rope/index.jsp

Pictured is a 3.5 inch as the one I have is 4.3 inch.

I've sat on the Go 1000 since September / October this year thanks to my contacts at TomTom.

---------- Post added 14-12-10 at 16:38 ----------

More Pics:







This mechanism will be mounted under the pad. There's just enough room.

Last edited by EvilPet; 14-12-10 at 15:42.
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Old 14-12-10, 16:09   #49
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UPDATE: TomTom Mounting

This is the mechanism which is going to be adapted to fit the TomTom and be moulded into the dash pad.

It may look familiar because it's off an old portable CD player. The mechanism is spring loaded and has a smooth release and rise action. Rather than go all motorised we thought that if Holden did have such a thing in the 80s, the mechanism would have been simple and cheap to manufacture.





This isn't the TomTom model I'm using as it's just for demo purposes only but mine hasn't been released yet and is in storage. You get the idea....

[Correction] - The TomTom model has just been released. Here it is:

http://www.tomtom.com/en_gb/products...rope/index.jsp

Pictured is a 3.5 inch as the one I have is 4.3 inch.

I've sat on the Go 1000 since September / October this year thanks to my contacts at TomTom.

---------- Post added 14-12-10 at 16:38 ----------

More Pics:







This mechanism will be mounted under the pad. There's just enough room.
will that effect the air conditioning vents in anyway, if not looks good

Last edited by sam515; 14-12-10 at 16:12.
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Old 14-12-10, 17:24   #50
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will that effect the air conditioning vents in anyway, if not looks good
Nope - It just fits with a couple of mm spare. The clamshell still has to undergo some modifications.

Last edited by EvilPet; 14-12-10 at 17:27.
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