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Old 30-03-14, 13:18   #1
Matt.
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VL Fuel Pump Issues (Electrical Problem).

Basically it began around a month or so ago (N/A RB30) I was having serious
power problems, the car was going nowhere, completely gutless.
I narrowed it down to being the external pump, it wasn't pumping fuel
through properly, nor was it priming when you turned the key to accessories.
It was trying to but no fuel was going through.

I replaced it with a second hand pump, and it ran perfectly (for about 2 weeks)
before I ran into the same problem again. So I bought and fitted a brand new pump, which didn't fix it and ended in the pump burning out.
So the tank was dropped, drained, a new internal and new external pump fitted, put back together. Same problem, not priming properly, no power,
that pump also burnt out and was again replaced with another new one, which obviously
didn't fix the problem.

The relay has been replaced, we tried a different body control module, and
now it won't even start, the pump fuse keeps blowing. I'm down almost
around $800, been without a car for two/three weeks, my Dad can't work it out, my mechanic can't work it out, I can't work
it out and I have no patience left.

Definitely something electrical, sorry for the essay but any ideas may be helpful,
I'm sure it's going to end up being a 5 minute $10 fix...

Thanks in advance.
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Old 30-03-14, 13:53   #2
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Checked the Fuel Filter?
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Old 30-03-14, 16:38   #3
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Yeah replaced that too mate, thinking the oxygen sensor
may be the cause of the running issue, maybe. It's rich,
blowing alot of black sh*t when it's idling.
Not smoke just burnt fuel on the ground (has dump pipe).

The fuse issue is definitely the pump, I disconnected the
positive at the pump and the fuse didn't blow on accessories.
Could be a faulty batch, they were all Goss brand
from Bursons.
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Old 30-03-14, 20:26   #4
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I have a very similar problem atm. I burnt out the high pressure pump at the track which at the time cause the fuse to blow. Put a new pump in and the fuse kept blowing. I ghetto'd it up at the track to drive home which consisted of by passing the relay and direct wiring the pump in (which was fine with inline 15A fuse). With this being the case it can't be the pumps, must be some other electrical cluster**** as it ran fine in that config.

I've been over the entire pump circuit, checked for shorts, the works, can't fault find it. The other thing is it's not consistent. Can sit on the dyno at probably 70% load and it's fine. Cruise off down the street, touch the throttle and bam, fuse blows...got me stuffed.

Anyway in my case I'm fitting an 044 HP pump at the moment which will draw more current so I gave up and i'm rewiring both pumps off another relay with higher amp rated wire and fuse etc. Then puts them on their own circuit (stock they share 12+ve with o2, air regulator and fuel pump pressure cut off). Figure it was the easiest solution haha.

Interested to know if you sort it out and what it was. I think when the pump burnt out it must have burnt some of the wiring or something? But short wise I couldn't find it...but like I said maybe in my case it was intermittent. Otherwise it has to be the 02, air reg or pump cut off causing some weird current draw spike...which seems unlikely.
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Last edited by CJW; 30-03-14 at 20:31.
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Old 01-04-14, 10:54   #5
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It's really weird, I had an Auto Elec' check it out yesterday and he said he's
never seen a problem like this, and he couldn't work it out. All he came
up with was a possible faulty batch of pumps.

I took the pump back to Bursons and they're sending off to the supplier to have it
tested but I think I may end up doing what you are. Rewiring a complete
seperate system and running the pump on a switch.
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Old 01-04-14, 21:32   #6
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I'd put in another relay instead of a switch, that way it will run exactly as it was from factory, with over pressure cut off etc and it's a lot safer. It's the way I did it anyway.

I just ran the trigger wire from the ecu that triggers the current fuel pump relay to the new relay as well. That way it switches both relays and your pumps work as factory...just now they are on their own circuit.
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Old 02-04-14, 12:51   #7
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A bad CAS will sometimes run the internal fuel pump constantly. If you turn the IGN on and hear the pump running flat out try pulling the CAS connector off.

if the external pump is blowing it might not be getting enough fuel.

you run a pressure guage on the fuel line?
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Old 02-04-14, 21:01   #8
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Don't see how the CAS can cause the fuel pumps to run constantly, it's not even on the same circuit? I could see how maybe it could make them stop as it might effect the computer trigger to turn on the pumps. Only way the pumps can run constantly is if you have an issue with the pressure shut of switch or a relay issue...I would have thought anyway?

Agree with the lack of fuel to external pump though, checked my in tank and it was fine.

I'd say mine probably blew due to duty cycle and then consequently fried something else somewhere. I had the car retuned and it was basically maxed out on the stock pump (about 190rwkw). Couple that with a 27yo pump going flat out for 20 minute circuit sessions at Eastern creek and it only took it for so long...lasted 4 track days hahha.
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Old 02-04-14, 22:58   #9
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if the cas shows the ECU that the engine is cranking it will switch on the fuel pump. had it twice now and thats when I knew I blew a CAS. Just throwing it out there though.
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Old 03-04-14, 19:53   #10
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Yeah the pressure was checked when the external pump was replaced and it was fine
but after driving the car once, same problem and blew another pump.

Because it's running rich and blowing black stuff out the exhaust, has high idle revs etc.,
it apparently could be pumping through too much fuel which will result in the pump over
working itself, burning out, probably as you said CJW, fried the wiring somewhere in the
loom causing it to now short out.

It's most likely going to my old mechanic next week but I'll try the CAS and rewire up the pump to bypass
the factory set-up with a new seperate relay and fuse, and give it
a go.
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Old 03-04-14, 20:51   #11
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Yeah no probs chem.

Bit of an update on my problem. Everything re-wired, separate circuit etc, etc....still blew a fuse (I did still put both pumps on the same circuit).

For my issue now it has to be the in tank pump, there is nothing else left. It works, I tested it, although maybe it's running at some limited capacity or has an intermittent short or something when it warms up or gets shaken in the mounts, hence it will idle fine, take it for a drive and boom, fuse blows.

I noticed when I put the 044 in it was cavitating a bit. Did a bit of reading and thought that maybe the feed from the surge tank was a bit small (5/8"), so I upgraded the feed to 3/4" hahaha! Was still getting slight cavitation every now and then...so I guess in hindsight the in tank pump mustn't have been working at proper capacity and not filling the surge properly. Anyway biting the bullet and putting a Walbro in, hopefully that solves the issue.
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Old 06-04-14, 14:53   #12
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Another update, turned out my issue was the wiring inside the fuel tank.

The earth wire must have a break/dodgy connection somewhere along it's length. Put a multimetre on it and resistance varies from 15-40ohms depending on how you bend it...huge resistance causing a big voltage drop across it, hence the current draw.

The fact it varies tallies with that was happening, IE it's fine when not driving the car but get a bit of fuel sloshing around, shake the wire, puts it into a high resistance position and boom.

Anyway rewired it all, put a walbro in at the same time and it ran flawlessly yesterday at eastern creek. Thrashed relentlessly all day, no probs!
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Old 09-04-14, 23:59   #13
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upgrade at the same time! everyone wins.
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Old 29-04-14, 14:15   #14
Matt.
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Okay so car's sorted now... how many weeks and $$$ later.

Basically the reason it appeared my fuse was blowing was because the
fuel pressure regulator was jammed (hence the no power issue). Which meant
the external pump was over working itself trying to force fuel through a jammed reg',
then burning out, and due to being burnt out (obviously fried the wires inside the pump)
that caused the fuse to blow.

I have 2 new pumps now (internal/external), new filter, new pressure reg', new dissy as
the old one had very low spark, re adjusted the timing and the car runs perfect.
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