Auto To Manual!!!! VL Gearbox Changeover

[5spdvl]

Even if there was, it remains an open circuit when both pedals aren't depressed. The circuit is completed when either the brake or clutch pedal is depressed, meaning that the cruise module doesn't care that they're not there. If that makes sense!

[CHRGD6]

True, but one would have thought that there'd be an in-built thing, an error check of sorts, that relies on the switches being in place to ensure that once cruise is engaged it can be disengaged

[yellow_vl]

my biggest mistake during build of my vl was converting to manual,stick to auto bro

[5spdvl]

Nope, you'll never get my vote for an auto. Not enough control of the car.

CHRGD6, I see your point, I just can't see where the mechanism is that would make that check. If there is such a "check", I'm 99% sure its not at the switch itself.

[CHRGD6]

There's no difference between the cruise control modules between the auto and manual vehicles?

[5spdvl]

Not according to anything I've ever seen. But, of course, Gregorys and Max Ellerys wiring diagrams are made to suit auto and manual, so they make little additions/subtractions here and there to suit.

The manual cruise circuit *appears* to either have replaced the brake switch with the clutch switch, or added the clutch switch in.

The manuals make no mention of there being a difference with the module itself. No one thinks the 3EM ECU would change things around do they?

Oh, by the way - I can unplug the TPS, accelerator pedal position sensor, and AT2 computer without it making a difference to the car whatsoever.

[terryo]

can anyone confirm if the rear crossmember and mounts off an auto will suit a "turbo" manual?????. If not, I need the correct bits to fit a Skyline turbo manual box to my car. thanks

[5spdvl]

It doesn't suit.

[CAR_NUT]

Originally Posted by DJ Mitzi

Heres a pic of where the neutral (purple) wires have been bridged




sorry cant help you with ur querry nik..
btw hows the vl coming along?

Originally Posted by mrclean86

When installing a manual trans in a VL, lots of tech articles say join the purple wires beside the fuse box. This bypasses the “Park” lockout. If you haven’t got the rest of the manual loom, this means that the reversing lights and the neutral lockout will not work.

Here is another way.

Buy 2 good quality (eg Narva) 2 position joiners.

Disconnect the loom that connects the position selector switch on the auto trans to the plug on the firewall, near the master cylinder. Looking at the end of the plug you have just removed, numbering starts at top left corner (with plug catch upwards). If you have the repair manual, numbering is the same as in the book.
catch on top
1 8 7 6
2 3 4 5

Cut the position selector off the auto wiring loom and throw it away. There are 8 wires to cut.

1. find red/black wire 1 and solder the cut end (where you cut the auto selector off ) onto one of the new joiners. BEFORE you solder it up, splice another wire with the red one so you have a join going from the joiner (make the splice out of red wire for simplicity – make sure it is at least 30cm long)
2. find the blue/black wire 3 and solder it onto the other side of the same joiner.
3. find the black/white wire 2 and splice it onto the extended red wire from step 1 above
4. solder this spliced wire onto one side of the OTHER joiner
5. splice the red wire 5 with the black wire 4 and splice a black wire about 30cm onto this wire
6. solder this extended black wire to the other side of the joiner

Put heat shrink around all the joints to protect them

Now you should have 2 joiners with wires 5 connected and 3 spare wires. Tape up these 3 spare wires and wrap the loom in electrical tape.

At this stage, you have circuits for the reversing lights, neutral lockout circuit and the “Park” bypass circuit.

Now, to connect to the gearbox, cut the connectors off the neutral switch and the reverse light switch. Note – if you remove them, the switches are not interchangeable. Solder the other ends of the joiners onto these 2 switches. Then connect the Neutral switch to the extended red and black wires using the joiner. Connect the Reversing switch to the other joiner.

Now what you should have is a fully connected loom which allows the reversing lights to come on when the reverse is selected, the neutral lockout such that the car can only be cranked over in neutral and the park bypass to allow the car to be cranked and started.

Sounds complicated but it is really very simple with some basic skill with a soldering iron.

Steve.

can i ask whos done these and found it faild or somthing like dash lights stayed on when they shouldnt??

only reason i say is coz theres no need to change the wiring harness wat so ever, nore cut the purple wires, i only say this as i have a S2 calais that i put to manual last year and didnt do any of these.
All ya need to do is cut a normal piece of wire and and with the realy out is shove the ends of the wires into the purple wires and then shove the realy bak in make sure u strip the ends,
Or a neater way splice the purple wires and solder the purple wires together with the piece of wire that u cut without cutting the purple wires at all and then solder wire on and does the same

everything works perfect on mine no pwr light on and reverse comes on when in revese not every gear ect ect

[5spdvl]

The loom he makes (as above) incorporates turning the auto reverse/neutral switch loom into a manual one, and converts the neutral switch loom into being in P or N. Normally, these are two looms. Its another way of doing it (by connecting the wires at the neutral switch to put the car permanently in P or N, so it starts).

Its just another way, like bridging the purple wires at the neutral safety switch, near the battery.

What you suggested is EXACTLY like bridging the wires, except you avoided soldering. Which is DODGY.

[CAR_NUT]

yeh i bridged mine without cuttng the wires just spliced them and solderd a wire from one purple wire to the other (not dodgy lolz) without cutting them its just that ppl that dont reply on this but are on my msn seem to tell me that those ways dont work weather its how they did it ect but i heard a couple things like dash lights stay on one was after doing the wiring harness wouldnt start ect just stupid crap thats avoidable but yeh either way theres plenty of ways to get around it,
and i wasnt saying they dont work but just the feedbak i got on them as i did refer them to this b4 i did mine

[Tempest]

quick note. i have finally sourced NEEDLE BEARING spigot bushes. contact me if you want one.

on a 2nd note, this is the SECOND jim berry clutch that has FAILED completely on me in a row.

[5spdvl]

You mean for the input shaft, Tempest? Nice work! How/why did they fail?

The only way I can see the dash lights staying on CAR NUT is if people stuff up the loom wiring for the reverse neutral switch.

[Tempest]

yeah, it takes the place of the copper one in the back of the crank. the old clutched failed cause it was **** quality.....

[MARMO.]

so is that the same style of clutch that maatouks use in there manuals?

nothing really special looking to me, infact it looks like it doesnt realy uses much to hold the cussioning springs in,

i got a nismo coppermix clutch on its way for my car, with nismo gmax pressure plate, hopfully it does the job.

how much u after for one of those bearings tempest?
there the same that come in clutch kits in the use, but urs looks better quality

[5spdvl]

Oh sh*t, I just realised what that was! NEEDLE roller bearing spigots? Wow!

Mine is just like a tubular off cut (not really, it just looks like it).

Maybe one of those would help since I detonated my clutch this morning...photos coming soon

[Tempest]

yeah, they are needle roller spigots. about 25 bucks. factory ones are a straight oil impregnated copper mix, they are gold in colour.
i have gone back to a full face excedy centre clutch, uses MUCH heavier springs in the middle and use 3000lbs clamp. so far so good! driveability is MUCH better and it handles the HP easy. the only reason you really need a button clutch is if you plan to run to run slicks. hope you have your wallet handy if you do...

[5spdvl]

Cool. I may just invest in one now since I actually broke my N/A gearbox yesterday. I'll let you know Tempest.

Thats the output shaft snapped off and lodged in the tailshaft, and the severed box end in the second shot.

Anyway, here's the damage...





Sorry about the quality, this was on my phone. This is the result of trying to show off to your mates....
5000rpm with a decent condition clutch killed this gearbox in 0.5 seconds.

I think I'm seeking an R33 item now....

[Tempest]

output shaft! nice! how'd you manage that? mx7 box? if it helps i have a stripped down mx7 with a stripped 3rd gear, but you you salvage the main shaft out of it

[5spdvl]

Nah, I wish mate. An N/A box, weak as p*ss. My cars' only an N/A for the moment, awaiting parts for the turbo conversion.

May as well put a decent box in now.

Tried to pull a burnout out the front of my work yesterday morning, dropped the clutch at 5000rpm, BANG clunk clunk clunk clunk....

[Tempest]

go 33, don't muck around with mx7

[5spdvl]

Thats the plan. Figured I'd skip the MX7 to save problems (like this ) later on.

Better start researching what goes with what....

[Tempest]

na sandwitch plate, 9 1/2flywheel (na), or turbo one and starter to suit. turbo yoke and tailshaft. um.. yeah. pm me if i missed anything. use skyline slave.

[5spdvl]

Yeah, I had a read of the tech thread. Pretty basic.

I need:
-R33 box (w/ slave and fork)
-MX7 yoke
-MX7 speedo sender
-clutch line made to suit (if appilcable)

[Tempest]

clutch line will screw into the rubber hose off the r33 slave, but not the actual slave. just make sure you get the little rubber line as well.