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Old 25-02-11, 22:34   #276
ss181
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is it time

is it time to pull the gearbox out and change the loom over..

if so i have a VLCT loom TURBO that is apart from the Detenation sensor is there any other difference i have the matching computer..
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Old 26-02-11, 01:56   #277
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Hey guy great fourm just some info been offerd box tailsahft pedal box an man comp for $400 is it worth it an how hard to do it on my own with min help from other half lol Or can some one point me in the direction of some where to get the full conversion kit I'm in Townsville fnq cheers
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Old 01-03-11, 10:43   #278
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can anyone help

Can somebody please offer some assistance
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Old 01-03-11, 20:23   #279
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no difference you just have to change orange wiring on drivers side in engine bay... search for it there was details somewhere on how to do it..
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Old 09-03-11, 11:00   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss181 View Post
Gday All i need a few ideas please.

I have brought someones project.
VL Calais S1 86 with S2 engine

I got it knowing that it had no spark, so i put a new CAS in

i noticed the Fuel pump wasnt priming and ECU had no power which was the 2 pink wires(s1 S2 wiring issue) which i now have fixed and now have fuel pumping and power.

I then had the nuetral switch delima which i think is now fixed.

So i have fuel spark and power but the bloody thing just wont start
i have reverse lights and have bridged the purple wires near the battery and a manual loom to gearbox

as far as i can see there is no alarm or any other missing relays earths or fuse issue..

has anyone got any idea?? other wise its a call to the auto elec.


hey the when i did my conversion over christmas i had the series 1/2 issue which was stopping priming, and the only other thing would not let it start was the neutral switch so id check the neutral switch as once thats bridged the starter motor should fire other wise check the wiring from the starter it self and check nothing is loose or undone, hope this can be of some sort of help.
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Old 01-05-11, 23:14   #281
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Up and running

After several months or reading and trying to get understanding of wiring i finally got my vl up and running

it turns out that some of the relays had **** them selves
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Old 23-06-11, 20:13   #282
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so the auto flywheel bolts wont fit the manual flywheel?
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Old 30-07-11, 15:25   #283
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i end up getting bolts anyhow, the spigot bush was a pain to get out, grease and a punch didnt work, and up die grinding two edges and collapsed it, hopefully car will be running tomorrow...
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Old 17-10-11, 16:36   #284
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When changing to the r33 box can you use your auto x-member or do I need a mx7 or mf5 x-member?
Everywhere I read someone will say "yeah bolts straight on" then others say that there totally different. Cheers
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Old 29-01-12, 21:36   #285
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so does anyone else have a api box conected to a swich on their accelerator pedle and if so what do i do with it
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Old 30-01-12, 23:05   #286
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So what speedo cables are compatible with a mf5 non turbo rb gearbox? also does anyone have a good clutch master cylinder for sale or know when they can be bought new? i only need these two things to go ahead with the conversion.
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Old 27-05-12, 21:02   #287
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The throw out bearing removal and installation from sleeve:

Easy way. The hammer action!!!
used the butt of the large screw driver and sit it in the sleeve (the bearing slides onto) and hit the flathead on concrete it comes off in five seconds the same when putting it on but reverse the sleeve of course n lube the baby up first. No damage and pease of pee
Like hitting the wooden butt of a hammer to get the head head to slide down.

---------- Post added 27-05-12 at 21:06 ----------

Will also be posting up the exact bolt measurement and pitches because it's so hard to fined I have bought all the bolts twice due to hear say lol n buying the bolts yourself you save cash. 4 bucks for the lot now I can affor that paddle pop!
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Old 31-05-12, 18:14   #288
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Never trying this again lol if the box has to come out I'm paying some c$&@ to do it lol rotated it both ways using 2 jacks and my auto pressure plate sandwitched under the jack plate with a chain wrapped around the box atached to it. but keeps hitting the selector fork taken me 6 hrs so far just to do all that and I'm stumped.but I'll work it out, Its Good fun never doing it again. I'm not a mechanic and I have the basics. I'd say think twice if u r planning to do it all by your self with out looking at spending up big on all the things you'll need and having a lot of time.
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Old 01-06-12, 14:22   #289
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=/

Maybe take off all the chains and crap as it's probably what's preventing you from getting it in. Rotate it clockwise so that your starter motor hump and clutch fork are pointing down, then slide it into the motor. Takes a little practice, helps if you've got a burly mate under it.

You said "selector fork" - I hope you've removed the gearstick...
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Old 04-06-12, 20:34   #290
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Turismo: i´m guessing you have read the thread for the start? but just incase Some say you need to rotate it 45degrees, i not sure as i put mine together when the engine/box was out then slotted it in as one! Soo much easier. also torquing up the bolts while in the car would be PITA :-/
Good luck
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Old 11-07-12, 17:14   #291
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Yeah the problem was doing it by my self lol.
Would have had a mechanic do it but up here they want 1200 just to replace a timing belt (parts supplied)!!!

I hired some one to help me... got the box in
Now box has to come out again. mystery problem. 5 months off the road n counting...

"Step 19: Start her up and enjoy the extra power and luxuries of a manual VL."

Step 19: started her up n she wont go into gear.

Box has to come out, thinking of just throwing every thing i bought in the bin n going r33box n starting again.

New everything inc clutch 170 standerd oem replacement in it atm

I originaly bought an exerdy HD clutch for $300
But may dad told me i dont need it so i sold it for $200
it got lost in the post n ended up in carns so me n the guy i sold it to (strugaling uni student) are in a war against australia post to find it. n get it to him.

Im just having a rant because iv tryed so hard n im at my whits end. i just want it to work. so i can get on with my life.
Dont know why i try some times...

---------- Post added 11-07-12 at 17:20 ----------

PS Phantom T
I would have read this 2-3 times now.same goes for
wikipedia on how clutches work,
how stuff works: clutch
r31 skyline forum/wiki on auto to manual
Every problem thread about vl manuals even r33 issues
random searches, google images, rx7 forums, youtube, ect. ect

i knew how to do the conversion in my head b4 i even started it.
But obviously i did some thing wrong.

---------- Post added 11-07-12 at 21:18 ----------

STEP 20: BUY PART # JB4055 SLAVE CYLENDER; FIT; BLEED; DRIVE AWAY. HAPPY TO BE FINNISHED.
AND THE ABOVE WELL I FOUND IT HARD BECAUSE
a) I LIVE IN A REMOTE PLACE
b) I TRYED TO DO IT BY MY SELF WITH K-MART TOOLS
c) ITS THE BIGGEST CAR PROJECT IV UNDERTAKEN
d) IM NOT A MECHANIC


BUT GOOD PEOPLE MADE IT POSSIBLE

THANKS CT FOR LISTERNING
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Old 14-07-12, 10:14   #292
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Clutch plate isn't In back to front is it? I've done that before lol
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Old 10-09-12, 21:56   #293
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Originally Posted by mrclean86 View Post
When installing a manual trans in a VL, lots of tech articles say join the purple wires beside the fuse box. This bypasses the “Park” lockout. If you haven’t got the rest of the manual loom, this means that the reversing lights and the neutral lockout will not work.

Here is another way.

Buy 2 good quality (eg Narva) 2 position joiners.

Disconnect the loom that connects the position selector switch on the auto trans to the plug on the firewall, near the master cylinder. Looking at the end of the plug you have just removed, numbering starts at top left corner (with plug catch upwards). If you have the repair manual, numbering is the same as in the book.
catch on top
1 8 7 6
2 3 4 5

Cut the position selector off the auto wiring loom and throw it away. There are 8 wires to cut.

1. find red/black wire 1 and solder the cut end (where you cut the auto selector off ) onto one of the new joiners. BEFORE you solder it up, splice another wire with the red one so you have a join going from the joiner (make the splice out of red wire for simplicity – make sure it is at least 30cm long)
2. find the blue/black wire 3 and solder it onto the other side of the same joiner.
3. find the black/white wire 2 and splice it onto the extended red wire from step 1 above
4. solder this spliced wire onto one side of the OTHER joiner
5. splice the red wire 5 with the black wire 4 and splice a black wire about 30cm onto this wire
6. solder this extended black wire to the other side of the joiner

Put heat shrink around all the joints to protect them

Now you should have 2 joiners with wires 5 connected and 3 spare wires. Tape up these 3 spare wires and wrap the loom in electrical tape.

At this stage, you have circuits for the reversing lights, neutral lockout circuit and the “Park” bypass circuit.

Now, to connect to the gearbox, cut the connectors off the neutral switch and the reverse light switch. Note – if you remove them, the switches are not interchangeable. Solder the other ends of the joiners onto these 2 switches. Then connect the Neutral switch to the extended red and black wires using the joiner. Connect the Reversing switch to the other joiner.

Now what you should have is a fully connected loom which allows the reversing lights to come on when the reverse is selected, the neutral lockout such that the car can only be cranked over in neutral and the park bypass to allow the car to be cranked and started.

Sounds complicated but it is really very simple with some basic skill with a soldering iron.

Steve.
Why go to all that trouble when you can just get a manal loom off a wreck?
Im in the same boat with finding one but im sure its alot easyer then making this one you posted.
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Old 29-10-12, 16:16   #294
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Can someone please confirm, does the manual spigot bush sit further in then how the auto ones does in the 2nd pic 1st page...?
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Old 03-11-12, 17:17   #295
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yes sits in further. its a fair way in because you have to take the auto spigot out first
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Old 20-11-12, 21:11   #296
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Thanks sorted it out...

Can you get a nolathane rubber for the gear box crossmember, my gearbox feels like it has too much play between it and the cross member...
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Last edited by VL-EXEC; 20-11-12 at 21:17.
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Old 20-11-12, 23:26   #297
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Not as far as I know. You might be able to get a block of nolathane cut to suit, but it's probably not worth the effort. Get a new replacement if you're worried about it. Unless your car is pulling huge power, then you should be considering solid mounts for box and motor.
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Old 21-11-12, 05:55   #298
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Sweet ill just organise new rubbers, thanks
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Old 10-01-13, 18:09   #299
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NEED HELP ASAP!!
I have just converted my vl to manual and got it running no probs but i have a big problem. the clutch wont disengage until the pedal is pushed hard against the floor and even then there is only just enough movement to disengage the clutch if its even fully disengaged at all.

My clutch pedal is also adjusted right out and have also swapped master and slave cylinders but that doesnt appear to be the problem. there was also zero air in the system.

Engine is a rb30, gearbox: rb30 na mf5, clutch: brand new rb25det (i think) exedy hd sports tuff single plate (the pink one).

What i decided to do is use the throw out bearing that came with the clutch which is no doubt to suit the r33gtst box and i have used this throw out bearing on the vl carrier rather than the r33 carrier as i am using a vl gearbox with the rb25det clutch.

What i did notice is that the r33 bearing had a taper which located it right centered in the hole in the pressure plate prongs which meant it sat in slightly where as the vl throw out bearing was larger in diametre and maybe slightly in height meaning it would push higher up on the pressure plate prongs and would still end up centred as the shaft would locate into the clutch hub and spigot bush. I also noticed that the r33 carrier is definately a different height to the vl although they look identical.

So anyway what i'm thinking is that the rb25det throw out bearing on the vl carrier doesnt have enough throw to disengage properly. and also the r33 TO bearing sitting right in the centre of the pressure plate may mean it needs more throw to flex the pressure plate than the vl TO bearing that sits higher up.

Anyway i'm taking the box out again and i'm pretty annoyed with myself so i want to get this right.

I'm planning on now using the vl throw out bearing on the vl carrier in the vl gearbox and hope that will fix my problem as everything will be as per factory specs except the clutch, which looks identical to the old one that was in the rb30 box and is the exact same diametre.

So what are everyones thoughts and as to what the problem could be? I would really appreciate any help i can get.
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Old 16-01-13, 17:28   #300
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Hi guys any help would be good for what im about to ask cheers.

Ive got a vl sedan and ive just fitted a rb20det manual into it, it wont start by key so i have to bridge the wire across the plug near brakebooster. I got the missing cable the goes from the small plug near brakebooster to gearbox for reverse lights etc now and it still doesnt start with the key, ive also unplugged the auto computer under the kickpanel on drivers side.

its running rb20det computer and the vls dash loom etc has been connected to the loom properly/
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