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Old 06-08-15, 22:23   #26
SIroller's Avatar
Join Date: 11-03-07
Location: International, Chapel Street
Trader Rating: (52)
right so I should explain my situation a little.

I live in melbourne at a big suburban property but in a hilly area. as such rolling around a non running car is a bit of a bitch. I can't roll it onto my lawn as my lawn is completely innacessible for a car.

so this vl is up at my parents farm 2 - 2.5 hrs away. I work away from home a lot at the moment which has me at the farm bare minimum 2 nights per fortnight but usually more. as such i really only get 6 hrs per fortnight on the car (2 evenings after work) and this time is often interupted by beer phone calls to the g/f or dinner.

as such the progress is slow.

when we last left off the engine bay had been pulled apart, scrubbed clean and then I began removing more engine bay stuff and front panels.

I got stuck on the fuse rail through the firewall and gave up a bit.

so the fuse rail wouldn't push in and the reason wh is the entire dash and ac / blower fan setup was still connected. I did a look around at some tech threads but while theres a discussion thread i was suprised that a propper tech thread wasnt available for a fuse rail in glovebox conversion.

after a read i knew i had to get the blower fan unit out. It has 2 screws which are borderline innaccesible. I was able to get to one without removing the dash (apart from the glovebox) but couldn't get the other. I decided bugger it i have spares and yanked until it broke. (i hoped i'd just snap the mount but i actually snapped a little of the housing.) so to all the guys admiring my attention to detail, none of us are perfect

with that out the engine bay was taped up and given finally a second wash with CT18, degreaser (the supercheap auto spray can stuff) and just some whatever brand auto detergent / wax.

it was looking god but what now? Dad started clay-barring the paint engine bay roof whatever he felt like (to be honest its all buggered so whatever!) and i jumped in after putting some rainex brand (bunnings paint aisle) rust convertor on a few small spots.

oh and i used dad's petrol powered pressure wsher. it removed the bitumen from under the wheel arches! Bam!

tonight was the second night on her, we clayed more and dad started with an electric buff in the engine bay.

I removed the seats and capet centre console etc. as much as we tried a little water was getting in the firewall holes and truthflly the interior is filth and needs a clean anyway.

heres where we are at!

oh and I found the following -
cluster shroud 100% unbroken
all original screws everywhere.
centre console all the blanking caps were in so none of the screws were dirty or gunked up (unheard of nowadays)
carpet ha the build sheet on it perfectly legible as it was on the pass rear side. no evidence of the drivers side one was sighted.
we also found in the passenger rear footwell some beading cutoff, some hoodlining material and really cool, a dropped pop rivet with primer and topcoat overspray!

pictures loading as i type!

---------- Post added 06-08-15 at 22:35 ----------





i'm going to keep the original finish on the rails with angkor wax and re-bitumen paint the rest. inspiration via Steff's vn (12 Volt's car)


broom broom!

heaps of crap in the bay

dad claying the roof

---------- Post added 06-08-15 at 22:40 ----------

lifting the carpet

car was built 9 may 88, 9 days before i was born (i was born on the 18th)

dad is enjoying uncovering the history of the car. he is viewing it as a restomod like he did on his HK when he was a young fella

interior partly removed.

floor is dry and sound deadening uncracked

production line: "bugger whered that rivet go??"

production line rubbish... "bang it under the carpet, quick noones looking"

google says 9 may 88 was a Monday. everyone must have been hungover that day.

---------- Post added 06-08-15 at 22:42 ----------

as she sits tonight (i got some old blankets and fkanny sheets at the opshop to protect the roof and boot from scratches)

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Old 07-08-15, 09:49   #27
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Join Date: 15-08-12
Location: Melbourne, S.E Suburbs
Car: 87 Exec, BF Falcon (Daily)
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Loving the DIY resto mate! Good to see you having a go on your own without having to lash big $$
Holden: Australia's Driving Future.... Erm not for much longer
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Old 07-08-15, 16:28   #28
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Join Date: 11-03-07
Location: International, Chapel Street
Trader Rating: (52)
I'me keeping a spreadsheet of costs which includes both cars and sales of parts from the cars.

resto on this is easy. the main expense will be cleaning agents and spray cans. the body is excellent.

The real money will be final wiring and an exhaust as at this point i believe i'll outsource those items.

we also have to meld a VN v8 and a VL RB tailshaft so theres some expense there in a complete rebuild and balance. plus I still have to sort an LSD diff. i'm thinking i'll just yell "F it" and buy an ebay one. I found recoed ones for 300.


diff centre 300
tailshaft rebuild and balance 500 (had my VY done a while back effing expensive for what it is)
wiring and exhaust 1500?

shoud still be a cheap project hopefully. just bought a parts VL with a beige interior so free dash pieces and clips. I need a sunvisor and a centre console base so far.
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Old 22-08-15, 00:50   #29
talks a good game
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Join Date: 23-07-09
Location: QLD, brissy north
Car: vl berlina wagz
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loving it man. its probably the path i should go down with my sedan.

envious of your ability to dedicate time to the projects and getting to spend some decent time with your old man.
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Old 08-02-16, 21:06   #30
SIroller's Avatar
Join Date: 11-03-07
Location: International, Chapel Street
Trader Rating: (52)
lack of progress update:

purchased a diff on ebay. $400 - vl v8 28 splien 3:08 gears disc to disc and uncertain on the centre.

Diff gearing is the same as stock vn vq v8's so should be fine. 3:45's were in the vn ss so may give them a skip as i recon theyll be a tad short for cruising.

also I had a long range tank but i needed live axle straps for a clean install.

I got this off of facebook for $100 inc sender etc.

wtf is the go with the internals theres a normal sender setup and return line setup and the internal pump but theres something stuck inside with a hose that joins the sender unit and I can't figure out what it's purpose is.

have people just used a VLexec wh sender in a long range vn tank or have you adapted the vn up sender units?

this one came out of a vs which some p plater had dolled up with ss and calais parts so i couldn't say what it had originated from.

Oh and I got the pedders panhard rod for $50 from the same kid. Winning

Happy building gents!
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Old 09-02-16, 07:57   #31
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Join Date: 05-01-05
Location: Melbourne, City
Car: Car: Hq gts coupe - Vl Sl turbo bt1 - Vl nitron - Vl v8 1k001 berlina - Fg xr6 ute - LJ coupe - LX slr 5000 rep
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Good work Mitch!
Couple yuck dints on that tank or am I blind?
I think this thread explains the sender solution with pics on first page!
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Old 09-02-16, 11:17   #32
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Join Date: 11-03-07
Location: International, Chapel Street
Trader Rating: (52)
cheers deano yes there is one dent in the side the rest are just scrapes realy. I may try to pop it out on a hot day but i may also just leave it as is.

I have 3 long range tanks atm and i plan to use the best one in the VL however i also know that theres like 5 different types eg 80 litre 90 litre 85 litre etc and im not sure if i can swap an 80 litre tank with 90 litre straps so its just wait and see for now. The main thing is the car will have some goodies when it goes back together. (and it isn't a v8 convert with a drum 25 spline diff and a gaffataped standard fuel tank!)

---------- Post added 09-02-16 at 12:21 ----------

ahk so that pipe thing is a swirl pot and i can either connect it up or just use a section of fuel hose. got it!
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Old 12-01-18, 16:55   #33
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do you know what the go is with k frames? 304 use vn v8 k frame, rack and pacemaker headers? cheers Matt
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